Take an Idyllic Drive Around Oahu, Hawaii

Beyond the plantation, Oahu’s fabled North Shore appears on the horizon. Descend to Haleiwa, the surf town whose must-stop is Matsumoto Shave Ice, an island institution since 1951. Matsumoto’s serves the classic Hawaiian treat with dozens of refreshing flavors such as mango, coconut and the citrus-like yuzu. Order your favorite combo and add a scoop of ice cream. Trust us.

Haleiwa is the gateway to the North Shore, a string of world-famous beaches and surf breaks, such as the Banzai Pipeline, that helped the Hawaiian-born sport go global. A formerly lesser-known beach, Laniakea (Lah-nee-AH-kay-a), has been adopted by endangered green sea turtles that like to bask on the beach.

Next up: Waimea. The colossal winter surf of picture-perfect Waimea Bay gave rise to the legendary Eddie Aikau big-wave surfing tournament, which takes place when waves reach at least 20 feet high (only nine times in 38 years). Across the street is Waimea Valley, one of Oahu’s most immersive and accessible Native Hawaiian environments. Once home to the island’s high priests, the valley became a botanical garden in the 20th century. Today, a paved, shady two-mile walk weaves through cultural sites, interactive demonstrations (lei making, weapon making, wood carving) and exhibits to the island’s only lifeguarded, swimmable waterfall area. If the walk seems too far, you can hop on a shuttle. 

Round the island’s north point and stop for lunch at Kahuku Farms Cafe, a charming, friendly outdoor venue that transforms the farm’s tropical bounty into refreshing drinks and hearty sandwiches and pizzas. Don’t skip the lilikoi cooler, made with the sweet-tart yellow passionfruit. Farm tours are also available. If vegetarian fare isn’t your thing, save yourself for Pounders Restaurant farther on in the town of Laie (Lah-EE-ay), which serves up farm-fresh produce, island-raised grass-fed beef and locally caught fish.

Afternoon

Laie is adjacent to the Polynesian Cultural Center, a pan-Pacific cultural theme park (think fire knife dancers, hulas and canoe rides) that is well worth taking the rest of the afternoon to enjoy, especially if you have the grandkids in tow. If you save the cultural center for another day, the onward drive along Oahu’s east shore turns into a lazy shoreline cruise between vivid blue waters and the lush green Koolau Mountains. There’s a constant stream of lovely, uncrowded beaches at which to pause and stretch your legs, and a series of offshore islands that have a place in Hawaiian legend and lore, such as Mokolii (also called Chinaman’s Hat).