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AARP Smart Guide to Sun Protection

SPF sunscreen plays a big part, but there are other tools to consider to help block damaging rays


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Years of soaking up the sun can lead to unfortunate results: brown spots, wrinkles, broken capillaries, uneven skin texture and freckles — and even skin cancer. Although wearing sunscreen daily plays a big role in protecting your skin, there are other ways to keep your skin healthy while you still enjoy the sun. To help guide you, this AARP Smart Guide to Sun Protection includes a primer on SPF, advice on how to find the products that will work best for your skin tone and type, and pointers on topics to discuss with your dermatologist at your next annual skin exam.

 

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SKIN HEALTH BASICS

1. Visit your dermatologist regularly

Just like your annual physical or eye exam, you should schedule an annual skin check with your dermatologist for skin cancer prevention. Your doctor may refer to sun damage as photoaging, photodamage or solar damage. “During these appointments, your dermatologist will check your skin for any unusual lesions that require medical attention,” says Sumayah Jamal, M.D., a dermatologist with the Schweiger Dermatology Group in New York City. Early detection is key for catching skin cancer, and these screenings allow the physician to view every inch of your skin for moles, rashes and any changes from year to year.

2. Be prepared for your appointment

Arrive at your appointment with your hair loose and no nail polish. If you’re wearing makeup, bring a makeup wipe to remove it so that it’s not covering up your face. In between appointments, take photos of any suspicious spots so you can show your doctor the changes. When melanoma is detected early, the five-year survival rate is 99 percent, according to the American Academy of Dermatology. If you are researching photos of skin cancer, keep in mind that it can look very different based on whether you have melanated skin or not. The American Cancer Society says that if you notice your skin has a rough patch that crusts, bleeds, oozes or causes pain, or if you’ve developed a mole or spot that changes in size, shape or color, you should visit your dermatologist as soon as possible — even if it falls between your annual checkup.

3. Know what to look for

Skin cancer — the abnormal growth of skin cells — is the most common cancer in the United States and worldwide, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation. This umbrella term encompasses many types of cancers, and treatment can involve surgery to remove the cancer cells. There are three major types of skin cancer:

>>Basal cell carcinoma (BCC) is the most common type of skin cancer and occurs when UV radiation triggers skin cells to grow uncontrolled. A nonmelanoma, BCC can range widely in appearance and present as open sores, white waxy scarlike lesions, red or brown patches, shiny bumps, scars or growths with slightly elevated and rolled edges, and/or central indentations on areas of the skin that are typically exposed to the sun. BCC grows slowly, is directly related to sun exposure and has a high detection rate — and most BCC is curable, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation.

>>Squamous cell skin cancer (SCC) is the second-most common skin cancer and occurs where there is cumulative sun damage to the skin. A nonmelanoma, SCC is characterized by the abnormal, accelerated growth of keratinocytes, the most common type of skin cell. SCC presents in a few typical ways: scaly red patches; open sores; rough, thickened or wartlike skin; or raised growths with a central depression. These areas can occasionally itch, bleed and crust over. Although most are found on common sun-exposed areas of the body, SCC can show up inside the mouth, on the genitals, inside the anus and beneath a nail. SCC can be brought on by too much sun exposure, but it is also associated with smoking, drinking too much alcohol and a weak immune system. Most SCC can be treated and cured.

>>Melanoma is a serious form of skin cancer and begins in melanocytes, or cells that make skin pigment. Less common than BCC or SCC, melanoma is more likely than those types to spread to other organs if it is not caught and treated early. Melanoma can present as a brand-new brown or black spot, a change in an existing mole, a black stripe in a nail, a “freckle” in the eyes or a pink, pigment-free bump.

You can use ABCDE as a guide to assess your skin. A is for asymmetry; half of the spot is unlike the other half. B is for border; the spot has an irregular, scalloped or poorly defined border. C is for color; it has varying colors from one area to the next. D is for diameter; it is 6 millimeters — the size of a pencil eraser — or larger. And E is for evolving; the spot changes in appearance. If you notice any spots that have changed, talk to your dermatologist. Melanoma is typically curable if caught early, but if not, it can spread fast on the skin or other parts of the body, becoming more difficult to treat.

4. Avoid sunburns

According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, having five or more sunburns doubles your risk for melanoma, and a single blistering sunburn in childhood or adolescence more than doubles your chances of developing melanoma later in life. You can’t help what happened in the past, but you can make sure to avoid additional sunburns later in life. Keep in mind though, even if you avoid sunburns, unprotected sun exposure to your skin can cause ongoing damage when you don’t burn as well.

 

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SUNSCREEN BASICS

5. Understand the difference between UVA and UVB rays

The sun produces three types of ultraviolet (UV) rays: UVA, UVB and UVC. UVC rays are blocked by the atmosphere, so we don’t have to worry about those. UVA rays penetrate the most deeply and are present during daylight hours. These rays reach the epidermis of our skin (the top layer) and into the dermis (the middle layer of our skin), and they cause wrinkles and fine lines. UVB rays cause damage to the epidermis and are the chief culprit behind sunburns. Too much exposure to UVA and UVB rays can lead to skin cancer, which is why it’s imperative to use a sunscreen that is labeled “broad-spectrum,” meaning it protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Most active ingredients in sunscreen shield against UVB, but far fewer have UVA coverage, so look at the bottle carefully.

6. Decipher SPF ratings

SPF stands for “sun protection factor.” It refers to how much solar energy (UV radiation) it takes to result in a sunburn on your skin with sunscreen applied, relative to skin with no sunscreen applied. For example, SPF 15 screens out about 93 percent of rays, SPF 30 screens 97 percent, and SPF 50 screens about 98 percent. As a base, use at least SPF 30, which is what most dermatologists recommend. A higher SPF can filter out more UV radiation and will be more protective against burning compared to a sunscreen with lower SPF.

Lindsay Gunnell, M.D., chief resident in the department of dermatology at the University of Washington in Seattle, notes that SPF is only a measure of a sunscreen’s UVB protection and suggests this easy way to remember what damage is done by each UV type: In UVB, B is for burning; in UVA, A is for aging; and combined (C), they cause cancer.

Gunnell points out that the Food and Drug Administration has approved only three ingredients that are used regularly in UVA spectrum coverage: avobenzone, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. “People should make sure their sunscreen contains at least one of these ingredients and is labeled broad-spectrum to make sure they have some UVA coverage,” she says.

7. Don’t rely on high SPF only

“Higher SPF doesn’t always mean better protection,” says board-certified dermatologist Corey L. Hartman, M.D., founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama. “At minimum you should be using a broad-spectrum SPF 30, and even going up to SPF 50 can add an additional layer of protection.” According to Hartman, once you go above 50, the higher SPF ratings offer only marginal improvements in sun protection. It’s more important to apply sunscreen properly and reapply often.

“There is good data to support that using higher SPF can compensate, in part, for patients not applying enough,” Gunnell notes, adding, “I recommend that people use the highest SPF that works for them and strongly recommend SPF 50 over 30.”

8. Choose between mineral or chemical sunscreen

There are two main types of sunscreen: mineral-based (physical) and chemical-based. Both shield your skin from the harmful effects of the sun’s UV rays. Mineral sunscreens contain ingredients such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, and they tend to be thicker than chemical sunscreens. Mineral sunscreens are also less irritating for sensitive skin.

Chemical and mineral sunscreens both work by absorbing UV rays. There are several benefits to chemical sunscreens: They are transparent on the skin, work for a range of skin tones, are more lightweight than mineral sunscreens and tend to be more breathable. The downside to chemical sunscreens is that they can cause skin irritation and an allergic reaction for some, especially those with sensitive skin. In this case, a mineral sunscreen may be best.

9. Look for ‘reef-safe’ ingredients

You’ve probably seen “reef-safe” or “reef-friendly” labels on sunscreens. Although the phrases aren’t regulated, this typically means the sunscreen doesn’t contain oxybenzone or octinoxate — both of which protect against the harmful effects of UV rays but have been found to cause damage to coral reefs, one of the most diverse ecosystems on the planet. When you swim or shower, this chemical can enter our waterways. Some beaches — such as those in Hawai‘i, Palau and the U.S. Virgin Islands — have even moved to ban oxybenzone-containing sunscreens.

10. Plan for sun exposure

Chemical sunscreens are lighter, but both types take time to spread on, dry down and make an even protective layer on your skin. In the past, mineral sunscreens could leave a white cast or residue on your skin, but more recent iterations are easier to blend in. No matter which type you choose, it’s always best to apply sunscreen to dry skin before you get to your destination. You can use a mirror or get a friend to help with hard-to-reach spots.

Gunnell notes, “While technically true that all sunscreens work immediately, everyone should allow time for them to make an even, dry layer before doing activities.”

11. Reapply sunscreen after two hours

SPF measures protection for only about two hours when outdoors. This means that reapplication is just as necessary as — and perhaps more crucial than — your initial application. And this is the case whether you’re using a chemical or mineral sunscreen. According to Gunnell, the majority of sunscreen in the U.S. is water-resistant for a maximum of 80 minutes, some just 40 minutes. “It is recommended that people reapply when sweating/swimming every one hour,” she says. “If you are not sweating/swimming, then the two-hour rule is just fine.”

12. Rely on water-resistant formulas

If you’ll be spending time in or around water (or expect to sweat), always choose a water-resistant sunscreen. This is not to be confused with waterproof. You should still always reapply sunscreen every two hours, or more often if you’re swimming or sweating, but the benefit of water-resistant sunscreen is that it’s designed to keep your skin protected even while wet. “The active ingredients will be the same as non-water-resistant versions, but the base will be different. It will be much thicker and oil-dense, which takes longer to dissolve in water,” says Karen Fernandez, a lead aesthetician at the SkinSpirit spa in California. 

13. Choose based on skin type

If your skin is on the drier side, look for creamy textures that’ll nourish the skin as it protects. Dermatologist Geeta Yadav, M.D., of Facet Dermatology in Toronto, recommends hydrating ingredients that help quench dryness (like glycerin) as well as ceramides, which prevent moisture loss, and moisturizing emollients like jojoba oil, shea butter and squalane. If you have oily skin, avoid formulas that contain heavy oils and plant butters (like coconut oil, shea butter or cocoa butter). If you have sensitive skin, Yadav recommends formulas that contain soothing ingredients to help quell any existing irritation or redness, such as aloe, chamomile, green tea and niacinamide.

14. Choose based on skin tone

The idea that only people with light skin tones are more susceptible to UV damage is both inaccurate and dangerous, as it can lead those with pigmented or dark skin tones to believe they do not need to protect their skin. The myth comes from an estimation that those with darker complexions have a natural SPF of 13.4, whereas those with lighter complexions have a natural SPF of about 3.4. This may lead many to skip sun protection — which can lead to a higher rate of death from skin cancer for people of color, due to a delay in detection or presentation. “While it’s true that people with light skin tones are more susceptible to skin cancer because they have less melanin in their skin, that doesn’t mean those with deeper complexions are not at risk,” Yadav says. Though it’s less common, people with darker complexions are still at risk of developing melanoma skin cancer as well as nonmelanoma skin cancer.

15. Apply the correct amount

Most adults need about an ounce of sunscreen — enough to fill a shot glass — to fully cover their entire body, according to the American Academy of Dermatology. For your face and front of the neck, Jamal says you’ll need about a quarter-teaspoon for maximum coverage. It’s important to note that it’s the incidental, short, unprotected exposures to the sun that will cause serious damage over time. There doesn’t need to be a burn to create damage and for the breakdown of healthy cells to occur, Fernandez adds. What this means for you: It’s crucial to wear the right level of protection, apply and reapply the correct amount, and always look for broad-spectrum products.

16. Protect your skin year-round

Apply sunscreen every day. There is no correlation between UV levels and temperature, so even in cooler weather, apply SPF-rated sunscreen. Just like sand and water at the beach or pool reflect UV rays, snow does too, increasing your sun exposure.

17. Don’t forget often-missed spots

Fernandez says that the ears are a common area of your body that gets a ton of sun exposure. But because your ears contain fewer nerve endings, they won’t always alert you when a burn is happening, so it’s important to apply sunscreen heavily to this area. And while you’re putting sunscreen on your ears, dab some along your hairline and part as well, unless you’re wearing a hat. Don’t forget to apply lip balm with SPF too. Finally, your hands receive constant sun exposure and may not feel the burn or heat as the damage is occurring, Fernandez warns. Be sure to always add sunscreen as needed to the tops of your hands.

18. Try a stick sunscreen

Stick sunscreens aren’t just for kids; they’re an easy way to quickly apply sunscreen when you are out and about. “There are many stick forms that offer broad-spectrum protection that are easy to apply. The trick with stick sunscreens is to do at least three to four passes per body part, and rub the sunscreen all over the skin. Don’t rely on just the passes from the stick to fully protect; otherwise you’ll end up with a striped sunburn,” Hartman says. Gunnell adds that because at least four passes are needed for adequate coverage, sticks are better for touch-ups than as a base layer.

 

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MAKE SPF A DAILY ROUTINE

19. When to apply

“SPF [sunscreen] should always be the very last step of a skin-care routine” before makeup, Yadav says. “It acts like a shield, protecting everything underneath. Also, if you were to apply it first, the subsequent application of your other products could cause the [sunscreen] to move around on your skin, rendering it less effective. Generally, I recommend people apply skin-care [products] from thinnest to thickest — and sunscreen is usually on the thicker end of the daily products most people use.”

20. Do the math

Layering sunscreens is not additive, and “your level of protection will be equivalent to the highest SPF of the products being applied,” Jamal says. This means that if you’re wearing a moisturizer with SPF 20, a sunscreen with SPF 30 and a foundation with SPF 20, your level of protection is 30, not 70. Jamal notes that layering multiple products does make it more likely that you are applying the correct amount of sunscreen (since most people tend to under apply).

21. Incorporate SPF-makeup hybrids

Incorporating SPF-makeup hybrids into your beauty routine can offer additional layers of protection. It’s important to note, however, that most makeup products that contain SPF won’t offer adequate protection, because not enough product is applied by the user. Naana Boakye, M.D., a dermatologist at Bergen Dermatology in New Jersey, says that we need 2 milligrams of sunscreen per square centimeter of skin. This means you’d have to use layer upon layer of makeup to ensure sufficient protection, which the average person wouldn’t normally wear. To ensure maximum protection, you shouldn’t rely on SPF makeup products as your sole source of protection — rather, always apply a traditional SPF sunscreen and think of any SPF makeup product as the cherry on top.

22. Wear sunscreen indoors

HEV (high-energy visible) light comes from computers, smartphones, tablets, lighting and other digital electronics. Blue light from a computer is HEV light, says Jeanine Downie, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in New Jersey. “This is also emitted by your phone, tablet and Apple watch,” she says. While research shows that HEV light does not cause skin cancer or sunburn, it can induce uneven skin and hyperpigmentation (dark spots and melasma). “Progressive damage from HEV light can lead to dark spots and photodamage,” adds Downie. She recommends wearing sun protection when you are indoors.

Gunnell explains that “most American sunscreens do not protect against HEV at all. Only tinted products that contain iron oxide can do this — and you have to be able to see the tint, so it looks like makeup essentially. None of the chemical UV filters in our country have a sufficient spectrum to protect against very long UVA and visible light. Sunscreens approved internationally absolutely protect in this range, but unfortunately these are not yet FDA approved here.”

 

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OTHER CONSIDERATIONS

23. Baseball hats versus sun hats

“A baseball hat won’t give you as much protection as a full sun hat,” says Hartman. Baseball hats will help protect against glare, but they really don’t do much else in terms of protecting your head, face and ears from the sun. Hartman recommends choosing a hat with a wide brim that goes all the way around the hat to protect your ears, face and neck and to pair that hat with sunscreen.

24. Skip the sunscreen sprays

Although sunscreen sprays may seem extra convenient, many dermatologists recommend avoiding them due to a risk of lung irritation. Additionally, it can be difficult to make sure you’re getting enough coverage. Plus, current FDA regulations on testing and standardization do not apply to spray sunscreens. If you use a spray, hold your breath, never spray near your face and always apply outdoors. Rub it in by hand to ensure an even application — your skin should be glistening. And you’ll still need to reapply every two hours.

25. Shake the bottle well

If you’re using a mineral sunscreen, you may notice it has a tendency to separate or settle to the bottom. That’s why the directions on many of these products recommend shaking the bottle before applying. “All ingredients have different molecular weights and sizes, so you may need to give a little shake to incorporate all the ingredients and to make sure they are distributed properly,” Fernandez says. “All of the molecules work together, so full protection can only come from complete application.”

26. Be aware of expiration dates

Melissa Urban, a licensed aesthetician at the SkinForYou spa in Colorado, explains that sunscreen often has two date markers. One reflects how long the product is good after it’s been opened; it looks like a container with its lid off, along with a number and an M next to it. For instance, if a product says “12M,” this means that once the container has been opened, the contents are good for 12 months. The second common date marker is the product’s expiration date. Most sunscreens have a printed expiration date on the bottle itself or on the crimped part of the tube.

“Once this [expiration] date has passed, the product may no longer produce effects that are true to its label, which is extremely important when we’re talking about sunscreen,” Urban warns. “If you’re applying an SPF 50 and it’s past its expiration date, this product is no longer producing SPF 50 protection.”

Jamal says the FDA requires that all sunscreens retain potency for three years. “If there is no expiration date, discard [it] three years after the purchase date,” she says. Regardless of the expiration date, always take into account a product’s consistency, smell and color change, and discard it if something seems off, Urban notes.

27. Stay out of the heat

Fernandez says it’s not just sun exposure that can trigger your melanocytes to hyperproduce and cause sun damage or discoloration. Heat and other stimulation can be factors as well. “That’s why it’s important to keep your skin cool during the day, to avoid those triggers from causing more pigmentation,” Fernandez says.

28. Use a combination for sun protection

Don’t rely on your sun umbrella to protect you from the sun, Hartman says. “While umbrellas may provide some level of protection, research has shown that both UVA and UVB rays penetrate through the fabric and have the potential to burn,” he adds. “Use the combination of the umbrella, UPF [ultraviolet protection factor] clothing and sunscreen for the best overall protection.”

29. Research drug interactions

Many common medications can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight or increase your chances of heat-related illness. That’s because they contain ingredients that may cause photosensitivity, according to the FDA. There are two types of photosensitivity reactions: photoallergy, an allergic reaction, and phototoxicity, an irritation of the skin. Both types occur after exposure to UV light. Drugs that may increase sun sensitivity include NSAIDs (like naproxen), anti-arrhythmics, the diuretic hydrochlorothiazide, antifungals, antidepressants and antibiotics. Additionally, antidepressants, antihistamines, blood pressure medications and others may increase heat sensitivity. Not everyone will experience sun or heat sensitivity. View the FDA’s list and consult with your health care professional or pharmacist.

30. Avoid peak hours

The Environmental Protection Agency says the sun’s peak hours, when UV rays are the strongest, are between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. Plan your daily walks and other outdoor activities before or after these peak hours. To understand when the UV rays will be the highest, no matter what time of year it is, check a weather app or weather website for the UV index. It gauges unprotected risk from the sun on a scale of 1 to 11, with midday hours typically scoring a higher potential for damage. Gunnell recommends, “Always use a combination of sun-protective strategies — clothing, hats, sunglasses, sunscreen — when the UV index is greater than 2.” 

31. Consider installing a UVA-protective film

If you’ve ever driven for long periods of time, you may have noticed your left arm got more sun than your right, even with the window rolled up. That’s because most glass doesn’t stop UVA rays. In 2012, The New England Journal of Medicine published a photo of a 69-year-old truck driver who had extensive sun damage to the left side of his face, after being behind the wheel for 28 years. Nearly three decades of having the sun shine through his driver-side window resulted in unilateral dermatoheliosis, or photodamaged skin. The stark visual difference is a reminder that untreated glass can be penetrated by UVA rays. UVA-protective film is available for your car, home or office. It is typically effective for about a decade and can block up to 99.9 percent of UV radiation.

32. Cloudy and rainy days can do damage too

We usually only think about sun protection when it’s sunny outside, but you can still get a sunburn when it’s overcast and gray. In fact, clouds can sometimes increase, rather than reduce, the level of ultraviolet radiation. This phenomenon, called the “broken-cloud effect,” can result in higher UV levels than on a perfectly cloudless day. While scientists don’t know why this happens, one theory is that UV rays bounce off clouds and then are redirected, creating a combination of refraction and reflection that could result in significantly greater UV strength at ground level. So even if you aren’t seeing the sunlight hitting your skin, UV rays are still reaching it — which is why you should apply sunscreen every day.

33. Get your vitamin D levels checked

Your body makes vitamin D when sunlight (UVB rays) hits the skin. Getting as little as 10 to 15 minutes of direct sunlight a few days a week can provide us with most of the vitamin D our bodies need to maintain healthy bones, muscles and immune systems while also protecting us from cognitive decline. If you’re not getting enough sunshine, talk to your doctor about testing your vitamin D levels to find out if you should take a supplement. Dietary guidelines call for 600 international units daily of vitamin D for people up to age 70 and 800 IU daily for those over age 70. 

Gunnell explains that “the American Academy of Dermatology does not consider any level of unprotected sun exposure safe and does not recommend people get vitamin D through sun. It is well-documented that since sunscreen does not 100 percent protect against UVB (the UV important for vitamin D protection), many people can still have adequate vitamin D levels while using strict sun protection.”

 

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MORE PROTECTIVE MEASURES

34. Consider your entire sun-protection strategy

Sunscreen is just one part of blocking the sun’s harmful rays. It’s also important to seek shade, cover up with clothing and wear wide-brimmed hats as needed. Driving gloves will help protect your hands from the sun’s harmful rays while you’re on the road. And you can wear a sun blanket made of UV-protective material while spending time outdoors.

35. Wear dark colors

It may seem counterintuitive, especially on hot days, but dark blue, black and dark red are the best colors of clothing for sun protection. That’s because darker colors absorb the UV rays before they can hit your skin. Thicker materials with a tighter weave will provide more protection than loose-weave or lightweight fabric. You can also wear clothing with SPF protection. Look for an ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) of at least 30.

36. Protect your eyes

Excessive UV exposure can lead to cataracts. The American Optometric Association recommends wraparound sunglasses that have 99 to 100 percent UVA and UVB protection. Wearing a hat also protects your face, scalp and neck — three areas that receive the most sun damage.

37. Avoid tanning beds and sunlamps

Both tanning beds and sunlamps give off UV radiation, and they can cause skin cancer, skin burns and premature skin aging, as well as short-term and long-term eye damage. Avoiding both will reduce your skin cancer risk. Another light you may be forgetting? The UV light you use to set your nails can cause the same kind of skin cancers that tanning beds and sunlamps do. So when using one, apply at least a SPF 30 broad-spectrum water-resistant sunscreen to your hands or wear gloves with the tips cut off.

38. Stop smoking

About 90 percent of nonmelanoma skin cancers and 86 percent of melanomas have been linked to exposure to UV radiation from sunlight, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation. But not all skin cancer is caused by the sun. Current smoking and heavy smoking were associated with a higher risk of squamous cell carcinoma.

39. Supplements may help

Could popping a supplement help stave off nonmelanoma skin cancers? Nonmelanoma refers to types of cancer that occur in the skin that are not melanoma, such as basal cell carcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma. While more research is needed, a small study published in American Health & Drug Benefits found that nicotinamide, a vitamin B3 supplement, helped lower the rate of new squamous cell and basal cell skin cancers by 23 percent for high-risk individuals. It also lowered the risk of precancerous actinic keratosis. Other supplements, including Polypodium leucotomos (Fernblock), and vitamins that may help are selenium, zinc, beta-carotene, omega-3 fatty acids, lycopene, polyphenols and vitamins C, E and A. Gunnell cautions, “Most of these supplements have not been shown to prevent skin cancer or be sun protective, or there is conflicting data.”

This was reviewed by Lindsay Gunnell, M.D., a chief resident in the department of dermatology at the University of Washington in Seattle. She works in a melanoma-focused clinic at the Fred Hutch Cancer Center in Seattle and is passionate about skin cancer prevention and sun protection.



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