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Years of soaking up the sun can lead to unfortunate results: brown spots, wrinkles, broken capillaries, uneven skin texture and freckles — and even skin cancer. Although wearing sunscreen daily plays a big role in protecting your skin, there are other ways to keep your skin healthy while you still enjoy the sun. To help guide you, this AARP Smart Guide to Sun Protection includes a primer on SPF, advice on how to find the products that will work best for your skin tone and type, and pointers on topics to discuss with your dermatologist at your next annual skin exam.
SKIN HEALTH BASICS
1. Visit your dermatologist regularly
Just like your annual physical or eye exam, you should schedule an annual skin check with your dermatologist for skin cancer prevention. Your doctor may refer to sun damage as photoaging, photodamage or solar damage. “During these appointments, your dermatologist will check your skin for any unusual lesions that require medical attention,” says Sumayah Jamal, M.D., a dermatologist with the Schweiger Dermatology Group in New York City. Early detection is key for catching skin cancer, and these screenings allow the physician to view every inch of your skin for moles, rashes and any changes from year to year.
2. Be prepared for your appointment
Arrive at your appointment with your hair loose and no nail polish. If you’re wearing makeup, bring a makeup wipe to remove it so that it’s not covering up your face. In between appointments, take photos of any suspicious spots so you can show your doctor the changes. When melanoma is detected early, the five-year survival rate is 99 percent, according to the American Academy of Dermatology. If you are researching photos of skin cancer, keep in mind that it can look very different based on whether you have melanated skin or not. The American Cancer Society says that if you notice your skin has a rough patch that crusts, bleeds, oozes or causes pain, or if you’ve developed a mole or spot that changes in size, shape or color, you should visit your dermatologist as soon as possible — even if it falls between your annual checkup.
3. Know what to look for
Skin cancer — the abnormal growth of skin cells — is the most common cancer in the United States and worldwide, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation. This umbrella term encompasses many types of cancers, and treatment can involve surgery to remove the cancer cells. There are three major types of skin cancer:
>>Basal cell carcinoma (BCC) is the most common type of skin cancer and occurs when UV radiation triggers skin cells to grow uncontrolled. A nonmelanoma, BCC can range widely in appearance and present as open sores, white waxy scarlike lesions, red or brown patches, shiny bumps, scars or growths with slightly elevated and rolled edges, and/or central indentations on areas of the skin that are typically exposed to the sun. BCC grows slowly, is directly related to sun exposure and has a high detection rate — and most BCC is curable, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation.
>>Squamous cell skin cancer (SCC) is the second-most common skin cancer and occurs where there is cumulative sun damage to the skin. A nonmelanoma, SCC is characterized by the abnormal, accelerated growth of keratinocytes, the most common type of skin cell. SCC presents in a few typical ways: scaly red patches; open sores; rough, thickened or wartlike skin; or raised growths with a central depression. These areas can occasionally itch, bleed and crust over. Although most are found on common sun-exposed areas of the body, SCC can show up inside the mouth, on the genitals, inside the anus and beneath a nail. SCC can be brought on by too much sun exposure, but it is also associated with smoking, drinking too much alcohol and a weak immune system. Most SCC can be treated and cured.
>>Melanoma is a serious form of skin cancer and begins in melanocytes, or cells that make skin pigment. Less common than BCC or SCC, melanoma is more likely than those types to spread to other organs if it is not caught and treated early. Melanoma can present as a brand-new brown or black spot, a change in an existing mole, a black stripe in a nail, a “freckle” in the eyes or a pink, pigment-free bump.
You can use ABCDE as a guide to assess your skin. A is for asymmetry; half of the spot is unlike the other half. B is for border; the spot has an irregular, scalloped or poorly defined border. C is for color; it has varying colors from one area to the next. D is for diameter; it is 6 millimeters — the size of a pencil eraser — or larger. And E is for evolving; the spot changes in appearance. If you notice any spots that have changed, talk to your dermatologist. Melanoma is typically curable if caught early, but if not, it can spread fast on the skin or other parts of the body, becoming more difficult to treat.
4. Avoid sunburns
According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, having five or more sunburns doubles your risk for melanoma, and a single blistering sunburn in childhood or adolescence more than doubles your chances of developing melanoma later in life. You can’t help what happened in the past, but you can make sure to avoid additional sunburns later in life. Keep in mind though, even if you avoid sunburns, unprotected sun exposure to your skin can cause ongoing damage when you don’t burn as well.
SUNSCREEN BASICS
5. Understand the difference between UVA and UVB rays
The sun produces three types of ultraviolet (UV) rays: UVA, UVB and UVC. UVC rays are blocked by the atmosphere, so we don’t have to worry about those. UVA rays penetrate the most deeply and are present during daylight hours. These rays reach the epidermis of our skin (the top layer) and into the dermis (the middle layer of our skin), and they cause wrinkles and fine lines. UVB rays cause damage to the epidermis and are the chief culprit behind sunburns. Too much exposure to UVA and UVB rays can lead to skin cancer, which is why it’s imperative to use a sunscreen that is labeled “broad-spectrum,” meaning it protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Most active ingredients in sunscreen shield against UVB, but far fewer have UVA coverage, so look at the bottle carefully.
6. Decipher SPF ratings
SPF stands for “sun protection factor.” It refers to how much solar energy (UV radiation) it takes to result in a sunburn on your skin with sunscreen applied, relative to skin with no sunscreen applied. For example, SPF 15 screens out about 93 percent of rays, SPF 30 screens 97 percent, and SPF 50 screens about 98 percent. As a base, use at least SPF 30, which is what most dermatologists recommend. A higher SPF can filter out more UV radiation and will be more protective against burning compared to a sunscreen with lower SPF.
Lindsay Gunnell, M.D., chief resident in the department of dermatology at the University of Washington in Seattle, notes that SPF is only a measure of a sunscreen’s UVB protection and suggests this easy way to remember what damage is done by each UV type: In UVB, B is for burning; in UVA, A is for aging; and combined (C), they cause cancer.
Gunnell points out that the Food and Drug Administration has approved only three ingredients that are used regularly in UVA spectrum coverage: avobenzone, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. “People should make sure their sunscreen contains at least one of these ingredients and is labeled broad-spectrum to make sure they have some UVA coverage,” she says.
7. Don’t rely on high SPF only
“Higher SPF doesn’t always mean better protection,” says board-certified dermatologist Corey L. Hartman, M.D., founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama. “At minimum you should be using a broad-spectrum SPF 30, and even going up to SPF 50 can add an additional layer of protection.” According to Hartman, once you go above 50, the higher SPF ratings offer only marginal improvements in sun protection. It’s more important to apply sunscreen properly and reapply often.
“There is good data to support that using higher SPF can compensate, in part, for patients not applying enough,” Gunnell notes, adding, “I recommend that people use the highest SPF that works for them and strongly recommend SPF 50 over 30.”
8. Choose between mineral or chemical sunscreen
There are two main types of sunscreen: mineral-based (physical) and chemical-based. Both shield your skin from the harmful effects of the sun’s UV rays. Mineral sunscreens contain ingredients such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, and they tend to be thicker than chemical sunscreens. Mineral sunscreens are also less irritating for sensitive skin.
Chemical and mineral sunscreens both work by absorbing UV rays. There are several benefits to chemical sunscreens: They are transparent on the skin, work for a range of skin tones, are more lightweight than mineral sunscreens and tend to be more breathable. The downside to chemical sunscreens is that they can cause skin irritation and an allergic reaction for some, especially those with sensitive skin. In this case, a mineral sunscreen may be best.
9. Look for ‘reef-safe’ ingredients
You’ve probably seen “reef-safe” or “reef-friendly” labels on sunscreens. Although the phrases aren’t regulated, this typically means the sunscreen doesn’t contain oxybenzone or octinoxate — both of which protect against the harmful effects of UV rays but have been found to cause damage to coral reefs, one of the most diverse ecosystems on the planet. When you swim or shower, this chemical can enter our waterways. Some beaches — such as those in Hawai‘i, Palau and the U.S. Virgin Islands — have even moved to ban oxybenzone-containing sunscreens.
10. Plan for sun exposure
Chemical sunscreens are lighter, but both types take time to spread on, dry down and make an even protective layer on your skin. In the past, mineral sunscreens could leave a white cast or residue on your skin, but more recent iterations are easier to blend in. No matter which type you choose, it’s always best to apply sunscreen to dry skin before you get to your destination. You can use a mirror or get a friend to help with hard-to-reach spots.
Gunnell notes, “While technically true that all sunscreens work immediately, everyone should allow time for them to make an even, dry layer before doing activities.”
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