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A Local’s Guide to Napa and Sonoma Wine Country

From wineries to spas, discover the top things to do in this charming California region

a vineyard in california
Wine is likely the first thing that comes to mind when people hear about Sonoma and Napa, California. But there’s more to this stretch of Northern California.
Sonoma County Tourism

When someone mentions Napa or Sonoma, California, wine is likely the first thing that comes to mind — it’s what put both destinations on the map. But there’s more than just wine in this stretch of Northern California. Travelers of all ages flock to the region, but according to their respective visitor bureaus, Gen Xers and boomers account for 40 percent of all visitors to Napa Valley, and a slightly lower 34 percent in Sonoma County.

It can be difficult for first-time visitors to grasp the geography they’ll encounter during a stay. Napa Valley and Sonoma County are neighboring world-renowned wine regions, but they are not the same.

“A lot of people don’t realize how far Napa is from the coast. People expect to see the Pacific Ocean when they come to California. They’re surprised to learn that staying in Napa and going to the coast is an all-day commitment,” says Kelly E. Carter, founder of luxury concierge service Napa Valley Noir. “They also don’t understand how large Sonoma is, and that while some parts are relatively close to downtown Napa — Healdsburg, for instance — can be an hour or more away.”

Adding to the confusion, “Napa” can reference a city, a county and a valley. Same goes for Sonoma. Then there’s the grape-growing regions, called American Viticultural Areas, or AVAs, to contend with. 

Having lived in wine country for more than two decades, I always try to explain to folks that it’s not a question of one destination being better than the other, it’s about understanding and appreciating their differences. Note: The locations listed below are not all the areas in Napa and Sonoma, but these are the areas most worth your time.

Top things to do in Napa Valley 

At just 35 miles long and 5 miles across at its widest point, Napa Valley is home to more than 400 wineries, 90 tasting rooms and 150-plus restaurants. The area is divided into about a dozen cities, towns and regions, each offering its own compelling reasons to visit. It really comes down to knowing what you as a traveler want from the experience.

Napa

With a population of nearly 80,000, Napa is the largest city in Napa Valley, offering more than 55 wine tasting rooms in its walkable downtown.

All aboard! Using restored Pullman railcars, the Napa Valley Wine Train offers journeys that include multicourse meals, afternoon tea and wine tastings.

Get cooking. Take a cooking lesson, shop for household goods, or explore the museum dedicated to Chuck Williams, founder of kitchenware retailer Williams Sonoma, at The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) at Copia. 

Trefthen’s villa
Trefethen crafts wine in the only surviving 19th-century wooden three-level gravity flow winery in Napa Valley.
Trefethen

Sip and swirl. At Hess Persson Estates, you can taste wine and view a renowned contemporary art collection. For three generations, the family behind Trefethen has crafted estate-grown wine in the only surviving 19th-century wooden three-level gravity-flow winery in Napa Valley. Laces and Limos runs wine-tasting tours in electric tuk tuks.

Accommodations and dining in Napa

The cuteness at Carneros Resort and Spa
Carneros Resort and Spa will give you the resort experience in Napa.
Carneros Resort and Spa

Oxbow Public Market is home to 20-plus individually owned eateries and shops; favorites include Hog Island Oyster Co. and potato latkes from Loveski Deli. The cream of mushroom soup at nearby Kitchen Door has been a menu staple since the restaurant opened in 2011. Compline Restaurant describes its menu as “wine-friendly California cuisine.”

Milliken Creek Inn, Archer Hotel Napa and Napa River Inn are just a few of the many lodging options in or near downtown. For a resort experience, consider Carneros Resort and Spa; for a splurge, book one of the five rooms at Poetry Inn.

Yountville

Napa Valley’s first grapevines took root in Yountville, but these days the small town is arguably better known for its culinary prowess. 

Get artsy. A fun way to get your bearings, The Yountville Art Walk features nearly three dozen outdoor sculptures. View a map online, or grab one at the Yountville Welcome Center. 

Two hot air balloons
Hot air balloons glide over a vineyard.
Fuller & Sander Communications, Inc.

Up, up and away. Napa Valley Aloft launches daily (weather permitting) morning hot air balloon rides just steps off Washington Street, Yountville’s main drag.

Sip and shop. All of Yountville’s 14 tasting rooms sell something other than wine. Cookware and wine are highlighted at Hestan Vineyards’ Tasting Salon. At Silver Trident Winery, you can pair wine with pizza or potato chips while shopping the Ralph Lauren Home Collection. Tired of wine? (I won’t tell.) Beer flights are waiting at Mad Fritz Tap House. 

Accommodations and dining in Yountville

Bistro Jeanty serves coq au vin, cassoulet and other French classics, while selections at Ciccio include the pork chop Milanese, wood-fired pizza and gnudi. In addition to his Michelin three-star restaurant The French Laundry, chef Thomas Keller owns a handful of more approachable eateries such as Bouchon Bistro, Bouchon Bakery and RO Restaurant & Lounge.

There are myriad accommodations in Yountville. Bardessono Hotel & Spa is recognized as one of the greenest hotels in the nation. Every stay at Napa Valley Lodge includes a buffet breakfast with sparkling wine, while guests at the Napa Valley Railway Inn sleep in vintage train cars. 

St. Helena

It’s hard to drive along shop- and restaurant-lined Main Street without stopping, but St. Helena also offers an immersive Napa Valley history lesson.

Water-powered wonder. Built in 1846, Bale Grist Mill is one of a handful of functioning water-powered mills in the U.S. On weekends, the 36-foot water wheel turns, and visitors can watch as grains are turned into flour and meals. It’s a lovely spot for a picnic.

Sought-after sips. Spottswoode’s commitment to regenerative farming and sustainable winemaking is inspiring; history buffs should visit Charles Krug, Napa Valley’s oldest winery, while art lovers will be enamored with the collection at Hall. The Prisoner Wine Co. features an unorthodox but delicious wine and dim-sum experience, and Clif Family offers a brunch-inspired food-and-wine pairing. Substitutions, including a plant-based menu or mocktail flight, are available upon request.

Wine, fire, and vineyards
Alila Napa Valley has balconies with fire pits and vineyard views.
Violetto + By Alila Napa Valley

Accommodations and dining in St. Helena

Serving everything from burgers and organic milkshakes to ahi poke tacos, Gott’s Roadside always seems to have a crowd whenever I drive by. Featured on Oprah’s “Favorite Things” list multiple times, Model Bakery’s English muffins aren’t just for breakfast — try the Smashburger. 

Alila Napa Valley boasts balconies with fire pits and vineyard views, but the potato rosti with caviar and focaccia at on-site restaurant Violetto pulls you to the dinner table. A rare combination of towering redwood trees and vineyard views makes stays at Harvest Inn memorable.

Calistoga

If you’re looking to relax and rejuvenate, this laid-back locale, studded with geothermal mineral pools, has you covered.

Where to soak. Options abound. Built in 1913, the massive thermal pool at Indian Springs Calistoga is my go-to. If you’re not a hotel guest, a limited number of passes are available for spa-goers who want to soak in the hot springs before or after treatments. Solage, Auberge Resorts Collection and Calistoga Motor Lodge offer day passes.

Get filthy. As weird as it sounds, soaking in a tub full of warm mud is relaxing. The folks at Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs have used the same secret mineral-rich mud recipe since 1952.

Surprising sips. At Maria Concetto Winery, a robot sommelier pours wine. Picayune Cellars & Mercantile features a build-your-own hat bar, and Sterling Vineyards boasts the only winery aerial gondola in the world.

Accommodations and dining in Calistoga

The Poolside Escape Experience
The Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley is a resort within a working winery.
Four Seasons

Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley is Napa Valley’s first and only resort within a working winery. Grab a taste at on-site Elusa Winery or during dinner at the resort’s Michelin-starred Auro. Brannan Cottage Inn was built in 1860 by Calistoga’s founder, Samuel Brannan. It’s located just off Lincoln Avenue, the city’s main street, where you’ll find a number of restaurants including Sushi Mambo, vegetarian-friendly Lovina, and Calistoga Inn Restaurant & Brewery.

Top things to do in Sonoma County

The Sea Ranch Coastal access trail
The largest county in the San Francisco Bay Area, Sonoma County features a diverse landscape. Here’s a coastal access trail.
Sonoma County Tourism

The largest county in the San Francisco Bay Area, Sonoma County features a diverse landscape that spans more than 1,500 square miles. Explore the seemingly endless panoramas of the Pacific coastline, hike in the shade of towering redwood trees, and set realistic expectations when considering the more than 425 wineries that call the region home.

“Stick to two wine tastings a day — one in the morning, one in the afternoon — with a good lunch in between,” says celebrity chef and Sonoma County resident Charlie Palmer. “If you are a pinot noir lover, [J. Rochioli Vineyards & Winery] is truly the benchmark of Russian River pinot noir. Plus, the Rochioli family are gems, and usually one or all of them are there!” 

Healdsburg

This wine country hotspot boasts restaurants, hotels, shopping and great opportunities to get to know the folks behind its celebrated wines.

Listen closely. Medlock Ames’ self-guided Immersive Sound Experience goes beyond simple winemaker narration. It features a winery soundscape with resident wildlife, including acorn woodpeckers and barn owls. 

Aesthete
You can pack a picnic at Aesthete Winery & Farm in Healdsburg, California.
Aesthete

Sips and stories. A Kickstarter campaign and a goldendoodle named Lord Sandwich helped Smith Story Wine Cellars find a loyal fan base. Drink cabernet, zinfandel and more while hearing how three generations of a New Orleans family wound up crafting Flambeaux Wine, or pack a picnic and enjoy the company of a herd of rescue goats and sheep at Aesthete Winery & Farm.

Accommodations and dining in Healdsburg

Harmon Guest House, Hotel Healdsburg, h2hotel, Healdsburg Inn on the Plaza and Hotel Les Mars are all located in the city’s walkable downtown, while luxe Montage Healdsburg is about a 4-mile drive. A New York Times article in late 2024 named Quail & Condor among the best bakeries in the United States. SingleThread boasts three Michelin stars. Bravas Bar de Tapas, Dry Creek Kitchen, Valette Healdsburg, Acorn Café and uber-casual Healdsburger are all part of the city’s thriving culinary scene.

Santa Rosa

The largest city between San Francisco and Portland, Oregon, Santa Rosa is the urban heart of wine country.

Peanuts paradise. The Charles M. Schulz Museum and Research Center boasts the largest collection of original Peanuts comic strips in the world. Built by Schulz in 1969, neighboring Snoopy’s Home Ice features ice skating, hockey and the casual Warm Puppy Café. 

Monet garden
Coursey Graves features a Monet-esque pond and garden.
Coursey Graves

Sips and suds. Coursey Graves pours French varietals overlooking an eye-catching Monet-esque pond and garden, while Matanzas Creek Winery includes 3 acres of lavender gardens. Beer enthusiasts line up for the annual release of Russian River Brewing Co.’s triple IPA (India pale ale) called Pliny the Younger. 

The Astro
The Astro is a renovated mid-century-style motor lodge in Santa Rosa, California.
The Astro

Accommodations and dining in Santa Rosa

With its towering Vegas-style neon sign, the Flamingo Resort & Spa became an instant landmark when it opened in 1957.  The Astro is a colorful and beautifully renovated mid-century-style motor lodge. Sunday suppers at sister restaurant The Spinster Sisters (think entrées like vegetable tagine and schnitzel) are also designed to be kind to your wallet. Taco Tuesday at Mitote Food Park is a community favorite.

Petaluma

One of California’s oldest cities, Petaluma’s downtown — loaded with historic buildings, Victorian-era homes, shops and eateries — is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Appreciate downtown. Petaluma was spared by the 1906 earthquake, so many structures still stand. The free Historic Sites of Downtown Petaluma map highlights more than two dozen locations, including a drawbridge, a post office and a pharmacy for chickens. (Yes, you read that correctly.)

Top sips. Keller Estate crafts pinot noir, chardonnay and syrah, and occasionally the family’s impressive car collection is visible. At McEvoy Ranch, you can taste a rainbow of olive oils and small-lot wines. Barber Lee Spirits produces hard-to-find craft spirits including absinthe and lambanog. Beer drinkers will enjoy HenHouse Brewing Co. and Lagunitas. 

Accommodations and dining in Petaluma

There are ample standard chain hotels to choose from, including Sheraton Sonoma Wine Country Petaluma and newer Home2 Suites by Hilton Petaluma, but the century-plus-old Hotel Petaluma is the city’s best-known lodging. The Shuckery oyster bar is located in the hotel, while Stockhome restaurant’s Swedish meatballs are within walking distance, as is Stellina Pronto, a bakery, café and pizzeria. 

Sonoma

California declared its independence from Mexico here, but even most locals don’t grasp the tremendous amount of history found in Sonoma.

Don’t rush downtown. Sonoma State Historic Park consists of six sites near Sonoma Plaza, including Mission San Francisco Solano, the last established and most northern of the California missions.

Sonoma sanctuary. Home to rescued farm animals, nonprofit Charlie’s Acres offers tours, goat yoga, sheep meditations and more.

About Jack. Located in nearby Glen Ellen, Jack London State Historic Park includes the cottage where the famous author often put pen to paper, a museum, London’s grave and more than 29 miles of backcountry trails.

Sipping spots. Three Sticks Wines is housed in a historic adobe, while the sprawling Donum Estate features a world-renowned open-air sculpture collection. At Bartholomew Estate Vineyards & Winery you can pair a tasting with a short hike.

Accommodations and dining in Sonoma

The hot-spring-fed soaking pools at Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa are worth the splurge. Sonoma Creek Inn is a no-frills, budget-friendly property. In a structure built in 1843 for the brother of Gen. Mariano Vallejo, the founder of Sonoma, the recently renovated El Dorado Hotel & Kitchen is located steps from Sonoma Plaza. Also nearby is cheery Sunflower Caffé (any of its many grilled cheese sandwiches yield smiles), and the seasonally-inspired Valley restaurant, wine bar and bottle shop. There aren’t any Michelin-starred restaurants in Sonoma, but the newly opened Enclos is ambitious.

West County & Sonoma Coast

More remote and often missed by visitors, these scenic stretches drive home the diversity of Sonoma County.

Awe-inspiring trees. Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve protects 805 acres of coast redwoods (Sequoia sempervirens), including the more than 1,400-year-old Colonel Armstrong Tree, named after the lumberman credited with preserving the grove.

Octopus Shed. Showcasing the smile-inducing work of potter Cindy Searles, this roadside gallery operates on the honor system. 

Distinct sips. While Fort Ross Vineyard crafts a rare pinotage, Iron Horse Vineyards is a standout for bubbles. Spud Point Crab Co. is where I go to sip steamy, New England–style clam chowder.

Courtyard and Belden House
Belden House is one of the accommodations at the Stavrand Russian River Valley hotel.
Emma Kruch/Emma K Creative

Accommodations and dining in West County & Sonoma Coast

Thoughtful touches at Farmhouse Inn include nightly wine tastings, s’mores, and a bath bar of soaps and scrubs to be used in the lodging’s spa-inspired bathrooms. The Restaurant at Farmhouse Inn is known for its multicourse, hyperlocal tasting menus. Set on nearly 6 acres studded with redwoods and fruit trees, The Stavrand Russian River Valley hotel is a registered historic landmark. Only guests can dine at the restaurant, making for a blissfully quiet and tasty experience. Many of the rooms at The Sea Ranch Lodge offer cozy window seats where you can watch for the spouts of migrating gray whales. Peak whale-watching season is January through May. 

   

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