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Mark Bittman’s Favorite Provençal Chicken Is Perfect For Summer

Plus, the easiest dijon deviled eggs you’ve ever made and tiramisu for two


Side-by-sides of provençal chicken, tiramisu and dijon deviled eggs; image of Mark Bittman in circle in bottom left
AARP (Jim Henkens, 3; Burcu Avsar and Zach DeSart)

There is a food-related reason people love the Riviera, which can be taken to mean Provence, France, and Liguria, Italy. The dishes are simple and straightforward — and not only easy and fun to eat but also easy and fun to recreate. My first visit to that border in 1976 was revelatory, in that it was when I realized, when eating a meal much like this one, that there is no such thing as “French” or “Italian” food, only regional food in France and Italy — and this is one of the places where it freely crosses the border.

Whether you travel by plane, ship or armchair, this menu will transport you to a perfect summertime dinner for two on the Riviera. Each of the three easy recipes are perfect for two and take 30 minutes or less.

Start with the appetizer. It’s everything you love about deviled eggs with none of the hassle, perfect for nibbling in the kitchen or serving on dressed greens as a sit-down salad course. The one-pot main dish, Provençal Chicken, combines a little chicken with olives, capers, garlic, zucchini and tomatoes in a light but satisfying summer stew — I’m a sucker for the flavors of Provence! Dessert is a simply delicious tiramisu, and for peak summer, be sure to check out the shortcake-ish strawberry variation.

This time of year is for casual outside dining and entertaining. With that in mind, I chose recipes that can be made ahead, partially or fully. They’re perfect for small dinner parties too; just multiply all quantities equal to get to four, six, or even eight servings.

 

Hard-Boiled Eggs with Dijon Mayo

Eight halves of hard-boiled eggs on plate with a dollop of dijon mayo on each one
This recipe for Hard-Boiled Eggs with Dijon Mayo is everything you love about deviled eggs with none of the hassle.
Jim Henkens

Total time: 30 minutes

Everything you love about deviled eggs with none of the hassle. You can even prepare the recipe through step two up to a day or two ahead of serving; leftovers keep in an airtight container for another day or two. For more ways to flavor the sauce — and directions for creamier yolks — see the variations that follow.

Ingredients

  • 4 eggs
  • 1 cup ice cubes
  • ¼ cup mayonnaise
  • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, or more to taste
  • ¼ teaspoon paprika
  • Salt
  • Pepper
  • 4 or 5 chive stalks

Directions

Fill a 2-quart pot with a tight-fitting lid halfway with water and bring to a boil. One at a time, gently lower the eggs straight from the fridge (or not) into the boiling water with a spoon so they don’t crack. Cover, turn off the heat, and set the timer for 10 minutes if you want the yolks barely set and not chalky; add another minute or so if you want them firmer.

Put the ice in a medium bowl and cover with cold water. Put the mayonnaise, mustard and paprika in a small bowl and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Stir with a small spoon or soft spatula to combine. (The sauce will keep, refrigerated, in an airtight container for up to two days.)

When the timer goes off, transfer the eggs to the ice water with a slotted spoon. Leave them submerged for at least 1 minute. (You can refrigerate the whole boiled eggs for up to two days.)

When you’re ready to serve, chop the chives; you should have about 2 tablespoons. Reserve them for garnish. Crack and peel the eggs. Transfer them to a cutting board and halve them lengthwise. Sprinkle the eggs with a little salt if you’d like, and dollop some of the sauce on top of each half. Garnish with pepper and the chives.

Variations

For Hard-Boiled Eggs with Curry Yogurt, omit the Dijon mustard and chives. Instead of the mayonnaise, use 3 tablespoons plain Greek-style yogurt (preferably whole milk). Substitute 1 teaspoon curry powder for the paprika. The rest of the recipe stays the same. Garnish with 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro or cashews if you’d like. 

For Hard-Boiled Eggs with Saffron Mayo, omit the Dijon mustard. Substitute 1/8 teaspoon crumbled saffron threads for the paprika and add another teaspoon of mayonnaise to the sauce. The rest of the recipe stays the same. You can keep the chive garnish or skip it.

For Jammy Eggs with Any Mayo or Yogurt Sauce, prepare a sauce and garnish from the main recipe or two variations above. Instead of letting the eggs sit for 10 (or more) minutes in step one, reduce the steeping time to 8 minutes. Be careful peeling and cutting into these eggs, since the yolks are still a little runny.

 

Provençal Chicken

Stew made of chicken, olives, capers, garlic, zucchini and tomatoes in a bowl
Provençal Chicken combines a little chicken with olives, capers, garlic, zucchini and tomatoes in a light but satisfying summer stew.
Jim Henkens

Total time: About 30 minutes 

In this recipe, you can substitute eggplant or portobello mushrooms for the zucchini without changing anything else. Serve with sliced baguette, buttered noodles or rice to soak up all the terrific juices.

Ingredients

  • 2 or 3 boneless, skinless chicken thighs (about 8 ounces)
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • Salt
  • Pepper
  • 1 or 2 medium zucchini (about 8 ounces)
  • 1 or 2 ripe tomatoes (about 8 ounces)
  • ¼ cup black olives (any kind; preferably pitted)
  • 1 tablespoon drained capers
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 1 sprig fresh thyme
  • ¼ cup white wine or water
  • A couple sprigs fresh basil

Directions

Cut the chicken into large chunks. Put 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a medium (8- to 10-inch) skillet or 3-quart pot over medium heat.

When the oil is hot, add the chicken to the skillet, sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pieces lose their pink color and are browned in spots, 5 to 10 minutes, depending on their size.

While the chicken cooks, trim the zucchini and cut it into bite-size chunks. Core and chop the tomatoes. Pit the olives if necessary and halve or chop them. Drain and measure 1 tablespoon of capers.

As the chicken pieces finish, transfer them to a bowl. Add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil to the skillet (or pot). Add the zucchini, sprinkle with a little more salt and pepper if you’d like, and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is browned in spots, about 5 minutes. Peel and chop the garlic and add it to the skillet (or pot) along with the sprig of thyme and the olives, capers, and wine or water.

Stir and scrape the browned bits from the bottom of the pan, then return the chicken and any accumulated juices to the skillet (or pot). Add the tomatoes and stir. Adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles steadily but not vigorously. Cook, stirring once or twice, until the tomatoes break down and the chicken and vegetables are piping hot and as tender as you like (about 5 minutes). Strip the leaves from the basil sprigs and tear them for garnish. When the stew is ready, taste and adjust the seasoning and serve with the basil scattered on top.

 

Individual Tiramisus

Tiramisu in dish
For Tiramisu, be sure to check out the shortcake-ish strawberry variation.
Jim Henkens

Total time: About 20 minutes

Assembled right in serving bowls, with minimal shortcuts, this is a lightning-fast spin on the traditional Italian dessert. If you don’t have a handheld electric mixer — or don’t feel like messing with it — you can whisk the small amount of whipped cream with a whisk. (Or use pre-whipped cream from a can; about 1 cup will do it.) You can make the coffee and cream topping up to an hour before assembling; refrigerate in airtight containers. Be sure to check out the shortcake-ish strawberry variation.

Ingredients

  • Instant coffee or espresso powder (decaf is fine)
  • ½ cup boiling water
  • 6 large or 8 small ladyfingers
  • ½ cup cream
  • ¼ cup mascarpone cheese
  • ½ cup powdered sugar
  • Cocoa powder for dusting

Directions

Get two bowls handy to assemble the tiramisu; they should be big enough to hold the ladyfingers comfortably. Brew 1/2 cup instant coffee or espresso with the boiling water, using enough powder so it’s a little bit stronger than you’d drink it. Divide the coffee between the bowls. Add the ladyfingers and carefully roll so that they soak up the coffee.

Use an electric mixer (or balloon whisk) to beat the cream in a medium bowl until it holds soft peaks.

Combine the mascarpone and powdered sugar in a separate small bowl with a soft spatula until it’s smooth. Gently fold the mascarpone mixture into the whipped cream; spread it on top of the soaked ladyfingers. Put a little cocoa powder in a tea strainer, shake to dust the tops of the tiramisus, and serve right away.

Variation

For Balsamic-Strawberry Tiramisus, omit the cocoa. Hull and slice 1 cup of strawberries, put them in a small bowl, drizzle them with 2 teaspoons of balsamic vinegar and stir; let them sit while you make the puddings. Instead of the coffee, mix 1/4 cup strawberry preserves with 1/2 cup water; use this for soaking the ladyfingers. Top each tiramisu with a spoonful of the balsamic strawberries.

Recipes adapted from How to Cook Everything Fast by The Bittman Project for AARP.

 

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