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How I Relearned the Art of Doing Nothing

After a stressful career, a move to Italy motivated me to change my pace


illustration of a man holding a cup of coffee in an outdoor cafe
Ryan Johnson

Italian culture has practically trademarked the concept of la dolce vita, a phrase translated as “the sweet life.” But Italians also specialize in a related custom called dolce far niente, literally defined as “the sweetness of doing nothing.”

Decades ago, as a boy, then as a teenager and young man, I excelled at doing nothing. My mastery of idleness bordered on genius. I could easily lie on a beach all summer long without budging, much less feeling guilt.

But my attitude about expending energy shifted in my mid-30s. I had a wife and two children to support. I finally grew a conscience and adopted something unprecedented for me, namely an operative work ethic. From then on, I rarely took my foot off the gas pedal, my eye always on how to propel myself to a better job and a bigger salary.

Fast forward 35 years. I moved from New York City to Southern Italy. I now live in an ancient hillside town named Guardia Sanframondi. I have no plans to retire and can afford to tap my brakes. But I nonetheless aspire, at age 72, to bring myself full circle. I wish to learn anew how to practice dolce far niente.

This philosophy is generally interpreted to mean slowing down enough to come to a standstill and indulge in embracing the smallest, simplest pleasures of life. It could mean daydreaming under a tree in the countryside or sipping cappuccino in a café watching people parade past. The origin of the term is credited variously to the poet Lord Byron, the Italian adventurer Casanova and the Roman writer Pliny The Younger, who wrote, “It seems ages since . . . I knew what it was to do nothing, and rest and enjoy that lazy but delightful state of inactivity where you hardly know you exist.”

As it happens, Americans are evidently getting better at it. We now devote more time than ever before, if only slightly, to “relaxing and thinking.” So found the most recent Time Use Survey from the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics (BLS), released in June 2024. Examples of activities the BLS fits in this category range from “goofing off,” “wasting time” and “hanging around” to “breaks at work,” sunbathing, sitting in a hot tub and “reflecting, daydreaming, fantasizing, and wondering.”

In 2023, all Americans over age 15 reported spending an average of 23.4 minutes each day “relaxing and thinking,” the most since the survey started tracking the category in 2003. I calculated the annual average across the last 10 years (2020 was skipped due to the pandemic) to be 18.4 minutes. I also detected a clear-cut trend toward decade-over-decade increases, with the annual average inching from 17.7 minutes between 2003 and 2012 to 19.1 minutes since 2013.

True, we’re talking only a matter of minutes here. But mere minutes matter, too. What’s an hour without its 60 minutes or a day without its 1,440?

So now I’m on a quest to turn a little Italian. After all, many Italians customarily take a midday break, often involving pasta and wine followed by a long nap. They also traditionally take off most, if not all, of the month of August.

Just one problem: I’m American, not Italian. I grew up in a family of entrepreneurs, all of whom instilled in me, by example, a decidedly entrepreneurial mindset. It features the cornerstone credo that time is money. I came of age in the 1960s, justly known for the go-getter, gung-ho pursuit of professional success. Plus, I lived for 45 years in New York City, where I developed a decidedly New York City metabolism.

In short, I’m wired to think, act and work American. Once I got serious about my obligations, I came up with to-do lists for my to-do lists. I imagined myself composing emails to clients and colleagues in my sleep. I quickly discovered, as an American expat, how hard it can be to take it easy.

I’ve certainly tried. I’ve stared spellbound at our newborn grandson sleeping sweetly in his cradle. I’ve stopped on a walk just to admire grapes ripening in the sun and aspiring to turn into wine. I’ll take a deep breath now and then and savor the surrounding silence, stillness and solitude. In zoning out, I get away from it all and just let myself be. I forget myself long enough to find myself all over again. Such moments of peace reacquaint me, if briefly, with the carefree abandon I once took for granted in boyhood.

But by now my aversion to lollygagging was visceral, and so dolce far niente still eluded me. I still worked every morning and afternoon. I also studied Italian, shopped for groceries, walked our dog up into the hills and kicked around a soccer ball with five-year-old granddaughter Lucia.

Still, I’m determined to get the hang of hanging loose. I’m taking my lead from Walt Whitman, our most American of poets, who wrote, “I loafe and invite my soul . . . observing a spear of summer grass.” French philosopher Blaise Pascal likewise advocated going slack. “All of man’s troubles come from his inability to sit alone, quietly, in a room, for any length of time,” he said.

I intend to set aside a few minutes every day to unclutter my mind and daydream and cut my thoughts loose like a kite catching a high wind. I’ll try to take my time before my time gets taken from me. Only if I unplug can I ever really expect to reconnect.

By chance, I know just where to catch a free lesson. Come early evenings here, the old men in town congregate in a courtyard in front of our municipal building.

There, in the generous shade of a looming oak tree, they cluster with clockwork regularity into cliques. Pensioners all, and probably boyhood buddies, too, they pal around, gabbing away in thick local dialect, here and there breaking into laughter and song, until dusk delicately descends. They clearly have nothing much else they have to do, nor, for that matter, much of anything they would rather be doing.

It’s an inspiring spectacle, the art of dolce far niente personified. I’m there nightly, taking a bench to observe it all as if an anthropologist. Maybe, if I really apply myself, I’ll learn someday how to do more or less the same as they.

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