AARP Hearing Center
Whether you’re doing Dry January or looking to curb your imbibing in general, there’s never been a better time to explore nonalcoholic (NA) wine. As people look to limit or remove alcohol from their lives for social or health reasons, the market for NA (also called “de-alcoholized”) wines is booming — and consumers have more delicious options than ever.
“I do tastings of nonalcoholic wine for older wine drinkers,” says Trevor Wolfe, cofounder and chief commercial officer for NA alcohol retailer The Zero Proof, “and many of them are extremely interested in the category for medical reasons, because they’re getting a second or a third wind in life and want to live an extra 20 or 30 years, and they feel that moderating their alcohol intake can help them do that.”
And why not? Today’s nonalcoholic wine is a far cry from the plonk I tasted a decade ago, much of which only resembled wine because the label said it was supposed to. However, advances in technology, combined with a new generation of NA winemakers determined to advance the cause, have produced a wide range of nonalcoholic wines that are not only palatable but also enjoyable.
How NA wine is made — and why it can cost more
NA wine is fermented like traditional wine, but then has all or almost all of the alcohol removed — legally, less than one half of 1 percent can remain. The most common removal method is spinning, in which the fermented grape juice is sent down a vertical series of spinning cones, separating the wine’s components, including the alcohol and many of the chemical substances that give wine its flavor: dark fruit for red wine, or citrus for white wine. This is the main reason NA wine is more expensive; not only is the wine “made” twice, but spinning requires significant capital investment.
The challenge, then, is to find a way to put the flavors back while keeping the alcohol out of the finished product, says Glenn Andrade, senior vice president of winemaking at California’s Trinchero Family Estates, which created the NA wine brand FRE, a line of nine wines including a pinot grigio, a cabernet sauvignon and a white zinfandel.
“That’s probably one of the most difficult things to do, because once you remove the alcohol, the product falls apart a little bit,” Andrade continues. “And that’s where you have to begin to, I think, recraft it to an area where it’s more consumer-friendly.”
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