10 Tips From Top Dermatologists

1. Mix up products, but keep it in the family. "It's rare today to use all one brand — women cherry-pick," says dermatologist Jeannette Graf, an assistant clinical professor at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York. "Since many drugstore and prestige brands are owned by the same company, the benefits of scientific research and development apply to all." For example, L'Oréal Paris owns its namesake brand, Garnier and the Body Shop, as well as pricier labels such as Lancôme, Kiehl's, La Roche-Posay and SkinCeuticals. Estée Lauder owns Bobbi Brown, Clinique, La Mer, Origins and GlamGlow.

2. Spice up the basics. Take your skin to the next level. Dermatologist Doris Day, a clinical associate professor at New York University's Langone Medical Center, advises: "Switch to a gentle hydrating cleanser, exfoliate with a sonic brush or AHA [alpha hydroxy acid] scrub once a week and add an antioxidant serum with peptides and growth factors before your moisturizer, day and night."

3. Have separate day and night skin regimens. "It's not harmful to use one for both, but it's not optimal," says dermatologist Fran E. Cook-Bolden, the founding associate director of the Skin of Color Center and a clinical assistant professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center, and also the director of the Ethnic Skin Specialty Group. "Night is for repair, healing and recovery. SPF isn't necessary. In fact, it might exacerbate breakouts. Choose active botanicals and oils with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits if your complexion is struggling with persistent dryness or your usual moisturizer doesn't seem to be doing enough."

4. Lock in water. You drink a ton of water, so why's your skin so dry? "The barrier function of your skin has to be maintained to prevent water loss," explains South Carolina dermatologist Stephanie Smith-Phillips. "Applying a moisturizer with ceramides [such as CeraVe Moisturizing Lotion or SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2] immediately after washing helps repair that barrier and keep skin supple and fresh." FYI: Ceramides are a lipid, or fat, found naturally in skin but that diminish with age.

5. Rethink daily sun protection. Is it better to use separate sunscreen and moisturizer or a moisturizer with an SPF of 30? Debra Jaliman, a dermatologist and spokesperson for the American Academy of Dermatology, says, "A tinted moisturizing sunscreen does it all, especially one with a physical block like zinc oxide." Examples are EltaMD Skincare UV Elements Broad-Spectrum SPF 44 or Suntegrity 5-in-1 Natural Moisturizing Face Sunscreen Tinted SPF 30. To get optimum protection from a moisturizer with SPF, NYU's Day says to "pair it with a separate nongreasy sunscreen for extra protection as needed."

6. Organic and "green" brands are still chemicals. "Claiming to be more natural doesn't mean products are effective and gives a false sense of security,” Day says. “The reality is everything is a chemical, whether man-made or natural. Look for proven science and ingredients like retinol, AHAs, vitamin C, peptides and hyaluronic acid," says Mount SInai's Cook-Bolden. "The bottom line is that organic and naturals made without proven active ingredients are a waste of time, effort and money."

7. Just say no to DIY light therapy and gadgets. "Skip at-home needling rollers claiming to stimulate collagen production," Smith-Phillips cautions. "They can lead to bacterial infections, rosacea or psoriasis flares, and can spread herpes. Say no also to dermaplaning, a trend where women shave their faces regularly to ‘exfoliate.’ A patient started this without consulting me and spread viral warts all over her face — quite difficult to clear. " Adds Mount Sinai's Graf: "Accidental burns from too much heat and damage from too much pressure are risky for all."

8. Vitamin C serum tightens and brightens only as a topical. "Forget chewable C — you can't get the necessary level for skin repair,” Smith-Phillips says. Instead, apply stabilized vitamin C in the morning and use retinol or AHA at night "to boost collagen and erase brown spots." Vitamin C is a power antioxidant, but it loses effectiveness when exposed to air or light. Choose one in a dark bottle with a dropper, such as SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic or Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum. 

9. Keep an eye on the weather. "Know how your skin reacts to climate changes. You might want a richer moisturizer in winter, a lighter one in summer, since sun exposure leads to clogged pores — even at [age] 50," Day says. "Your skin also loses more water at night and produces more oils during the day. So use a light day moisturizer or cream, such as RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Daily Moisturizer SPF 30, for day, and a richer cream at night, such as Aveeno Absolutely Ageless Restorative Night Cream or Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Night Moisturizer."

10. Not all facial masks are for all skin types. "Masks are worth trying, but aim for specific goals — not just a trend-of-the-minute ingredient or format,” says AAD spokesperson Jaliman. "Know whether you want an extra moisture boost, brightening, deep cleaning, extra exfoliation or just soothing stress relief. Sheet masks are disposable and inexpensive, peel-offs are good for oily or acne-prone skin and enlarged pores, and gels for all."

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