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If your favorite fragrance — perfume, eau de toilette, cologne, body spray — suddenly seems weaker, or if you find yourself reaching for stronger scents than you used to, you’re not imagining it. It’s common for adults over 50 to experience a gradual loss of smell, often due to age-related changes in the body, or other factors like allergies or sinus conditions.
To help decode the world of modern fragrance and how it interacts with our changing senses, we talked to Darryl Do, a second-generation perfumer and senior perfumer at Delbia Do Fragrances. He also serves as an editorial adviser for industry magazine Perfumer & Flavorist and is a board member of the American Society of Perfumers, a nonprofit that upholds the standards of professional perfumery. Here, in his own words, he shares his top tips on fragrance.
Three notes comprise a distinctive scent
Fragrances are formulated to have top, heart (or middle) and base notes, designated by how quickly they evaporate. The top note is the first thing you will smell — and that tends to be the more volatile (or quick to evaporate) ingredients. It’s why people will say, “Oh, it smells nice at first.” Top notes smell for about 10 to 15 minutes; heart notes for about two to three hours; and the base notes can last up to 24 hours.
But it’s not just about the notes
A nostalgic scent like Drakkar Noir, incredibly popular in the 1980s and ’90s, is a blend of ingredients that gives it its distinctive heavy scent. You can’t just point to one ingredient; it’s an accord, which is like a flavor package. Are you familiar with Old Bay seasoning? You can read the ingredients on the package, and you could just buy them individually and make it on your own. But what you don’t know is the concentration of each item, how much pepper or salt or paprika. That’s the secret formula.
Make sure you still like the scent hours later
When trying out a new fragrance, be sure to smell it on your skin after the dry-down period, when the ingredients blend and become more uniform. Just like a soup or sauce often is better the day after it was made.
Your lunch may affect how your fragrance smells
There are several factors that may affect the way a fragrance smells on different people’s skin, and diet is a big part of it. If, for example, you eat a lot of garlic and cumin, then that’s going to come out in your pores. If your base layer is potent herbs, and then you spray vanilla on top of it, it will impact the overall fragrance. But there’s no need to change your diet, as these factors help personalize the scent to you. You just have to enjoy the way the scent smells on you, not worry about why it smells a bit different on others.
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