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This is like the little cake that grew and grew. It started as a spice loaf that got its moist texture from grated sweet potatoes. Then the sweet potatoes made me think about Thanksgiving, easy jump, and the much-loved side dish of mashed sweets topped with marshmallows. And whoosh — just like that, I had a cake that embraced the spirit, flavors and even the marshmallows of Thanksgiving.
It also invited choice. The basic cake, made with the sweet potatoes, maple syrup, citrus zest, spices and nuts — dried cranberries, too, if that’s your fancy — turns out a nibble loaf, a cake that can be eaten for breakfast (try slices toasted, buttered and drizzled with maple syrup), packed into lunch boxes or munched on the go.
Because the cake has so much flavor but not all that much sweetness, it welcomes sweet toppings. Add the orange-juice glaze, and you’ve got an afternoon cake that’s good with coffee, tea or mulled cider. Top the glaze with marshmallow frosting and put the cake on a pretty platter, and it’s ready to be set out for dessert — it’s nice to have a “non-pie” on the holiday table. Any way you make it and any time you serve it, it’ll be right. Even if it’s not Thanksgiving.
Morning, Noon and Night Thanksgiving Cake
Makes 8 to 10 servings
A word on the sweet potatoes: Of course you can use a food processor to coarsely grate them, but I prefer to use the large holes of an old-school box grater, mostly because the cleanup is easier.
A word on the flour: I like mixing a small amount of whole wheat or spelt flour in with the all-purpose — it adds a touch of heartiness to the cake. However, if you don’t have either of these flours, don’t run out to buy them: the cake is great made with only all-purpose.
A word on the frosting: Like the glaze, the frosting is optional, although I highly recommend that you make both. The recipe for the frosting makes just enough to cover the top of the cake with a thin layer. If you want more frosting, double the recipe.
Ingredients
For the cake:
2 cups lightly packed grated peeled sweet potatoes or yams
1½ cups all-purpose flour
⅓ cup whole wheat or spelt flour (or additional all-purpose flour)
1¾ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground cloves or freshly grated nutmeg
⅔ cup brown sugar
¼ cup sugar
1 clementine or orange
½ cup neutral oil
¼ cup pure maple syrup
3 large eggs, at room temperature
½ cup pecans or walnuts, preferably lightly toasted, chopped fairly fine
½ cup moist, plump dried cranberries (optional)
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