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In the summer of 2004, I printed out my manuscript for Baking: From My Home to Yours to mail to my editor. I was happy and tired. I’d worked on the book for years, and I was ready to put my cake pans on a shelf for a while and take a little time off before the edits and photo shoot would begin.
But that night, Michael started reminiscing about an iconic chocolate cake from our childhoods: Ebinger’s Black-Out Cake. It was a dark chocolate layer cake, sandwiched with a kind of pudding-ish chocolate cream, frosted with chocolate and covered with crumbled cake. Then came the question: Do you think you could make it? So much for stowing the pans. I pulled a couple down and set to work. I made a few cakes, but none matched our memory. And then I made a cake that was so good that neither of us cared that it wasn’t the cake. Mine was close, but because I couldn’t ace the frosting or the filling, I turned everything around and went from chocolate filling and frosting to vanilla meringue. I kept the crumb coating and called it Devil’s Food White-Out Cake. We loved it! We loved it so much that I sent it to my editor asking if she could squeeze it into the book. The latecomer made it into the book and then ended up on the cover! A better-late-than-never story with a surprise ending.
I baked that cake a few more times, but eventually stopped thinking about it because I was working on other recipes. Then, just as I was closing in on the finish line for this book, a friend wrote to tell me how much she liked the White-Out Cake and how often she made it. It was enough encouragement for me to revisit it: the cake was just as good as I’d remembered it. And, unexpectedly, it was excellent without filling, frosting or crumbs. I made it in a Bundt pan and only wished I’d thought to do it sooner.
Because there are no layers and no thick cushions of sweet frosting, all of devil’s food’s delights are amplified — the chocolate flavor is so full that it’s almost demonic, and the texture is bold. That it looks like your everyday Bundt, that it’s made like any old cake and that it uses the basic ingredients of so many chocolate cakes just makes the fact that it’s outstanding more remarkable. Bedeviling, really.
A cake this good is good plain, great with chocolate glaze, a bit greater with glaze and pufflets of whipped cream and greatest with glaze, whipped cream and cherries on top. Or sprinkles. Or berries. Or shaved chocolate. Go wild. It’s what the devil would want you to do.
The Devil’s Chocolate Cake
Makes 10-12 servings
Ingredients
For the cake:
1⅓ cups all-purpose flour
½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted if lumpy
¾ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
10 tablespoons (5 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ cup sugar
½ cup brown sugar
3 large eggs, at room temperature
1½ teaspoons pure vanilla extract
2 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, melted and cooled but still fluid
½ cup whole milk, at room temperature
½ cup boiling-hot coffee (can be made with instant) or boiling water
4 ounces additional semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped, or a generous ½ cup mini chocolate chips
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