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TV Food Star Alton Brown, 62: ‘There’s No Such Thing As a Natural Bad Cook’

The dynamic science-nerd chef chats about his new book ‘Food for Thought,’ what makes a good cook and eating weird things as a kid


alton brown working on a typewriter
Alton Brown shares some of his life stories in his newest book, “Food for Thought.”
Shayan Asgharnia

If you’ve seen the Alton Brown-created Food Network series Good Eats, or Brown, 62, hosting Iron Chef America or Cutthroat Kitchen, among other shows through the years, you know he’s a bit on the quirky side. The fast-talking food-world star is known for his humorous food-science experiments, and as a witty, lively commentator who relishes the creative process of cooking even more than eating (“the joy is simply in the doing of it,” he likes to say).  

Now Brown’s sharing some of his life stories in an entertaining new book, Food for Thought: Essays and Ruminations (Feb. 4), with tales from his childhood, which was divided between California and Georgia, where his family has deep roots. Then he’ll head off on his fourth and, he says, last big variety-show-style tour, "The Last Bite." An exhausting endeavor, he admits, with stops planned in at least 60 cities over the next four months.  

The celeb chef recently talked to us from his home north of Atlanta, which he shares with his restaurant-designer wife Elizabeth Ingram, about his unique career and first memoir, what retirement might look like and more.

How does it feel to release a book that focuses on yourself more than food?

It scares the crap out of me. I spent years writing scripts and nine books, but never a book that necessitated the baring of private parts. So it’s frightening. I’m a critic first, so I’ve already gone through and redlined the book and written a negative review.   

OK, I have to ask about one thing you wrote: Did you actually eat dog food as a kid, or were you joking?

Oh, no, there are no jokes there. Gaines-burgers dog food was a favorite of mine, and I have such fond memories that even now, talking to you about it, my mouth’s watering a little bit. I had a very, very odd culinary childhood. I would taste almost anything, and came to really appreciate very unusual things, at least for a kid.  

You’ve been nice enough to let us share your biscuit recipe, and the description from your book of your grandmother Ma Mae’s biscuit-making in her Georgia kitchen. Was she a particularly good cook?

You know, people didn’t think about that. They would say, “Well, I’m just an old country cook.” And they meant it. Cooking was just a thing you had to do. So I’m not going to say that if she were alive today, we’d be begging her for recipes and whatnot, but there was something very genuine in her cooking, and I very much liked to be in the kitchen with her. She was a practical joker, and we would get into mischief, setting up elaborate pranks on people. So I remember mostly her laugh, and I remember this kind of sly, almost wicked sense of humor that she had.   

What's the difference between a good cook and a bad cook?I don’t think that there’s such a thing as a natural bad cook. I think there are only people that either don’t want to cook or don’t care to cook, or somehow their emotional side has become disconnected from their palate. There are people that have more natural talent than others, though. My wife is a far better natural cook than I am, and she has no idea what’s going on.  

[Laughing] What do you mean?

She doesn’t know about proteins and fats and amino acids, nor does she care. She simply has the natural capabilities that I don’t have. Like the other day she said "I’m going to brulee some grapefruit," and at the last minute, for some reason, she decided to add cardamom into the sugar. Then I ate it, and I’m like, holy crap, I’m never eating another grapefruit without cardamom. I’m jealous of that, and I’ve had some little tantrums at her a few times about it.     

What’s for dinner tonight?

I’ll just roast a simple chicken, and pop it on the table and eat it with a green salad.

You seem so energetic. Do you work out a lot?

You know, I hate workout clothes. So what I try to do is, I try to live my life in as active a manner as possible. I chop the firewood. I climb 12,000 stairs a day. And my wife and I are avid paddleboard people. We have a small one-room cabin on a lake in Alabama, where I swim and we paddleboard. Just don’t make me put on workout clothes.

What’s your favorite place to visit for the food?

If I could just eat in one town in the world for the rest of my life, it would be Tokyo. They obsess over perfection, regardless of the cuisine. So, the best Italian food I’ve ever had in my life was in Tokyo. The best French food I’ve ever had in my life was in Tokyo. The only thing they don’t do well there is Mexican. They can’t get the Mexican thing down because they don’t understand cheese. 

Why are you calling your upcoming tour “The Last Bite”?

I’m retiring from this kind of large-format touring. I first started doing these shows in 2013, and it’s grueling. It’s a culinary variety show, which is very much based on the TV variety shows of the '70s like Sonny & Cher, which I loved, where you get some music and you get some comedy. There’s a lot of storytelling, and then there’s this massive food demonstration that is also going to involve a competition.

But you aren’t retiring?

The idea of retirement — I can’t even think of that. I can only think of trying to evolve. So when this is over, I’m going to stop, hopefully for a couple of minutes and sit quietly someplace and figure out what it is I’m going to do for my last act.

Any ideas?

I am obsessed with Japanese listening bars, what are called kissas. There are jazz kissas, where you listen to the music that’s being played by the bartenders on old vintage turntables. Above all things, I want to own my own jazz kissa — just a little hole in the wall where I can serve coffee in the mornings, then shut down and reopen and do whiskey in the evenings, maybe cook a couple of things for people. I’ll spin records on an outrageously beautiful old stereo and then go home at like two in the morning. That’s my retirement plan.

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