Red Light Therapy for Wrinkles?

Pros, cons and costs of this trendy treatment

Stephanie Watson,

AARP

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En español

Published January 02, 2025

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The skin rejuvenation industry has undergone a transformation over the years. Where we once concealed wrinkles with makeup, now we erase them with Botox, fill them in with fillers, and resurface them away with dermabrasion and lasers. The latest anti-wrinkle trend is red light therapy, also known as light-emitting diode (LED) light therapy, photobiomodulation, and low-level laser therapy (LLLT).

You might have seen ads for home LED masks, which make their wearers look like a cross between a Roman statue and a robot. These devices use low wavelengths of red light to treat skin conditions like wrinkles and age spots. Dermatologists offer a more potent version of red light therapy using a special wand or light panel.

Before you invest hundreds of dollars in a home mask or professional treatment, you’ll want to know — is red light therapy an effective wrinkle reducer, or a waste of money?

“The evidence we have is promising,” says Hannah Kopelman, a dermatologist at Kopelman Aesthetic Surgery in New York City and DermOnDemand. “I’ve seen firsthand how my patients’ skin texture and elasticity improve over a series of treatments. That said, I’m always clear with patients that results are gradual and cumulative, so it’s not a ‘quick fix’ like some other procedures.’”

How red light therapy works

NASA accidentally discovered the skin-improving benefits of red light in the 1980s and 1990s, while studying its ability to grow plants in space. Scientists who worked under LED light for long periods of time noticed that cuts on their hands healed more quickly than usual. Eventually, researchers began studying it for the treatment of skin conditions like acne, scars, psoriasis and wrinkles.

Red light therapy delivers low level wavelengths of red light to the skin. The light is thought to smooth wrinkles by acting on mitochondria, which you might remember from your high school biology class as the “powerhouse” of the cell. Mitochondria generate the energy that skin cells need to repair and regenerate themselves

The light also stimulates fibroblasts, cells that produce the proteins collagen and elastin. “Collagen and elastin are essential for keeping skin firm and smooth. As we age, collagen production naturally slows down, which is why wrinkles and sagging occur,” Kopelman says. “I tell my patients that red light therapy boosts the skin’s ability to rebuild collagen and elastin, leading to a smoother texture, more elasticity, and reduced fine lines. It also helps improve circulation, which brings oxygen and nutrients to the skin.”

Is it effective?

Research on red light therapy is promising, but still preliminary. Some research has shown that the treatment increases collagen production, improves the appearance of wrinkles and dark spots, and tightens skin. However, many of the studies that have been done so far were small and sponsored by the manufacturers of these products, making their findings somewhat unreliable. Plus, the lack of standardization in light wavelengths and intensities across the industry makes it hard to know what results you’ll get from the treatment you receive.

“I do think the science works, but whether the science actually translates across all of the LED machines that are on the market, I think that’s a little bit hazier,” says cosmetic physician Vivian Chin, M.D., founder of Koru Wellness & Aesthetics in New York City.

What to expect from treatment

You can have red light therapy done at a dermatologist or other cosmetic provider’s office, or you can purchase a product from a manufacturer. Doctors usually deliver the red light through LED panels or handheld devices. At-home versions typically involve a mask or wand that emit a lower intensity light than professional devices.

Because red light therapy doesn’t penetrate very deeply into the skin, it isn’t painful or damaging, and you shouldn't have any downtime afterward. But it also won’t give you the dramatic results you might get with ablative laser therapy or injectable treatments.

“The improvements I see with red light therapy are subtle but noticeable, particularly for patients with mild-to-moderate wrinkles,” Kopelman says. The change you see will be more gradual. Because red light therapy can produce different effects based on your skin tone, ask your dermatologist what to expect before trying it.

Also keep in mind that this isn’t a one-and-done kind of treatment. To continue building collagen and maintaining results, you may need to repeat the therapy once a week for the first six to 10 weeks, followed by maintenance treatments once every four to six weeks. As with any cosmetic procedure, your results will depend on factors like the health of your skin and how well you care for it (for example, whether you use adequate sun protection).

How much does it cost?

In-office red light therapy costs around $50 to $150 per session, say the experts we spoke with. Health insurance won’t cover the cost because it is a cosmetic procedure, but some practices will accept Health Savings Account (HSA) or Flexible Spending Account (FSA) payments.

The red light therapy masks you buy online range from $50 to $500. While the products might all look similar, the wavelengths and strengths of light they use can vary a lot. That’s why it’s important to do your research before investing in one.

“You really want to choose a brand that has clinical trials to support their products,” advises Jared Jagdeo, M.D., a dermatologist and founding director of the Laser, Aesthetics, and Body Institute at SUNY Downstate Health Sciences University in Brooklyn, NY. (He has conducted research on these devices and consulted for some manufacturers.)

Check that the device is FDA-cleared, which means the U.S. Food and Drug Administration has evaluated the product and believes it carries a low risk of harm to users. Also see what light wavelength the product uses. If it isn’t specified on the box, call the manufacturer and ask. A therapeutic dose is usually in the range of 625 to 670 nanometers.

Risks and precautions

Red light therapy is generally safe, especially when it’s done by a dermatologist or other trained provider. It’s not believed to cause skin cancer like ultraviolet (UV) light can. The most common side effects are redness or swelling of the skin, Jagdeo says. In rare cases, the skin in the treated area may darken.

If you’re using a home mask, he suggests first trying it on a small area of skin to make sure you’re not sensitive to the wavelength of light. And check with your doctor before getting this treatment if you take any photosensitizing medications, which include some antibiotics and acne medicines.

Red light therapy isn’t strong enough to damage the eyes. But because the light is bright, you may want to wear protective eye goggles, Jagdeo says.

Bottom line

Is red light therapy worth the cost? “For the right patient, yes,” Kopelman says. It can be a good standalone treatment if you’re looking for subtle improvements in wrinkles and skin tone without any discomfort or downtime. “However, I’m always honest with my patients — it’s not a substitute for more intensive procedures, like lasers or injectables, for deeper wrinkles or more significant concerns.”

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Stephanie Watson is a freelance writer with more than two decades of experience covering consumer health. Her work has appeared in WebMD, Time, Harvard Health Publications, Healthline, HealthCentral and many other publications. She also served as executive editor of Harvard Women’s Health Watch.