AARP Hearing Center
FDA Approves First New Sunscreen Ingredient in Over 20 Years — Here’s What It Means for Older Adults
The move could expand daily SPF options for adults with decades of sun exposure
Bemotrizinol, the first new sunscreen active ingredient approved for U.S. products in more than 20 years, may give older adults more daily SPF options.
AARP (Getty Images)
Key takeaways
- The FDA has approved bemotrizinol, the first new sunscreen active ingredient cleared for U.S. products since the late 1990s.
- Doctors say that the new ingredient should lead to improved formulations that are more pleasant to put on.
- Dermatologists say adults 50-plus should choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen that’s SPF 30 or higher, use enough and reapply it when outdoors.
The Food and Drug Administration has approved the first new sunscreen active ingredient for U.S. products in more than 20 years, a move dermatologists say could give adults age 50-plus more options for protecting skin that has already been exposed to decades of sun.
The ingredient, called bemotrizinol, protects against both UVA and UVB rays. According to the American Cancer Society, UVA rays are linked to wrinkles, dark spots and other signs of skin aging, while UVB rays cause sunburn. Both can contribute to skin cancer risk.
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But the biggest change for many older adults may be how future sunscreens feel. Dr. Debra Jaliman, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City and an assistant clinical professor at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, says bemotrizinol could help people who have struggled to make sunscreen a daily habit.
“For consumers, this means formulators can create sunscreens that deliver high UVA protection with a lightweight texture that are easier to apply and wear daily,” Jaliman tells AARP. “The real benefit is not necessarily that it blocks a new type of UV radiation but that it can help in the formulation of sunscreens that provide broad-spectrum protection throughout the day.”
Dr. Jennifer Stein, a melanoma dermatologist at NYU Langone Health, says, “Some adults over 50 aren’t able to find a sunscreen that they like, and bemotrizinol gives them another sunscreen option that is safe and effective and also cosmetically elegant.”
Dr. Anthony M. Rossi, a dermatologist and Mohs surgeon at Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center in New York, says bemotrizinol may also yield a sunscreen that’s easier to wear.
“This chemical filter ingredient has less irritant dermatitis (rash or itch) associated with it, compared to older chemical filters. This makes it more pleasant to use, and it is oil-soluble, so it is easier to spread,” according to Rossi.
Why it matters after 50
For many adults over 50, sunscreen can feel like a late fix for damage that started decades ago. But Dr. Abigail Waldman, a board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon based in the Boston area, says that is the wrong way to think about it.
“I tell my patients older than 50 that a lot of sun damage happened when you were a kid, teenager or in your 20s, but that doesn’t mean that everything you do now won’t help. Regular sun protection in your 50s and beyond can absolutely improve your skin health,” says Waldman.
That advice carries weight because skin cancer remains the most common cancer in the United States, according to the American Cancer Society. About 90 percent of non-melanoma skin cancers are associated with exposure to ultraviolet radiation and are largely preventable through a comprehensive sun protection strategy.
Bemotrizinol is new to U.S. sunscreens but not to sunscreen users in other countries.
“Bemotrizinol is a sunscreen ingredient that has been used safely in Europe for 20-plus years and has excellent coverage against UVB and UVA,” Waldman says. “It should dramatically improve the texture and experience of sunscreen.”
Why consistency matters
People are more likely to use sun protection consistently when they can find products that meet their needs and preferences. That may be where bemotrizinol makes its biggest difference: not by changing the rules but by giving manufacturers another way to make sunscreens people may tolerate and use every day.
Jaliman says shoppers should not turn sunscreen buying into a chemistry test.
“I would encourage people to focus less on finding a specific ingredient and more on choosing a sunscreen they are willing to use every day. The best sunscreen is the one that is actually used and reapplied if necessary,” Jaliman says.
Adults should not wait for new products before protecting their skin. The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends broad-spectrum sunscreen with a minimum SPF of 30 for daily use. For extended time outdoors, it recommends a broad-spectrum, water-resistant product with SPF 50 or higher.
For adults who already see the effects of sun exposure, the goal is to limit what comes next. Jaliman says daily sunscreen can help slow the cycle of new spots, precancers and visible aging.
“Many of my patients in their 50s, 60s, and 70s notice fewer new dark spots, less worsening of existing discoloration and fewer precancerous lesions when they use sunscreen daily,” she says. “Studies have shown that regular sunscreen use can slow further photoaging and reduce the development of actinic keratoses and certain skin cancers.”
Dr. Nicholas Brownstone, a board-certified medical and cosmetic dermatologist and an assistant professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai in New York, is more cautious about how much one new ingredient changes for people who already have decades of sun exposure.
“There is still an ongoing risk of photoaging and skin cancer as adults age,” he continues. “Also, intermittent, intense sun exposure may also contribute to skin cancer growth, so even if someone has been protecting their skin their whole life, there is still a risk of skin cancer with current sun exposure.”
What to look for on the label
The new ingredient does not change the basic shopping rule: Look for “broad spectrum” on the label. That means the sunscreen protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Waldman says it may take time for sunscreens with bemotrizinol to reach U.S. shelves.
“If you’re interested in trying this new sunscreen, then look for bemotrizinol on the active ingredients on the back,” Waldman says.
The key to proper sunscreen use
Brownstone says many people lose protection because they apply too little.
“SPF 30 or greater sunscreen should be used every two hours and applied in a ‘shot-glass’ amount to the entire body. More frequent applications may be needed if sweating or swimming. This is called ideal use,” he says.
“Given that many people do not use sunscreen in this ideal way, there may be some benefit from the extra protection from a higher SPF sunscreen,” he says.
Coverage matters too. Some of the easiest places to miss are areas people may not think about until a dermatologist finds a suspicious spot.
“Most people forget to apply sunscreen to their ears (especially inside the folds of the ears), the eyelids, lips and scalp,” according to Waldman. “ These are all areas that I see skin cancers develop. If you don’t like sunscreen in those areas, then it’s important to wear a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses.”
Brownstone offers a simple test for whether you are using enough.
“The biggest mistake I see is older adults not using sunscreen at all or not using the proper amount,” Brownstone says. “If one bottle of sunscreen lasts the entire summer, you are using it wrong.”
The key takeaways were created with the assistance of generative AI. An AARP editor reviewed and refined the content for accuracy and clarity.
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