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How to Dress to Flatter a Big Bust

Easy ways to showcase a voluptuous silhouette


models and different products
(From left) Torrid Surplice Wrap Midi Dress in Kayla Stripe Peacoat; J. Crew Factory Women’s Leopard Calf Hair Belt; Lane Bryant Swing 3/4-Sleeve Pleat-Front Top in Deep Blue; Fruit of the Loom Women’s Breathable Spacer T-Shirt Bra in Desert Dusk; H&M Women V-Neck Blouse in Cream; Padma Lakshmi.
AARP (Torrid; J. Crew; Lane Bryant; Target; H&M; Getty Images, 2)

The truth is you can be any size or height and have a big bust. Whether you’re a size 6 or 16, an S or XL, 5-foot-1 or 5-foot-9, a generous chest will always be a wardrobe challenge. How do I know? As a fashion editor, stylist and personal shopper for women over 50, the phrase “I’m too busty to wear that” comes up a lot. It’s not surprising since breasts do continue to change size and shape with age, often getting bigger and, in turn, saggier. This affects how clothes fit and if they fit. Here are 10 tips to make your big bust a true bosom buddy:

different stars
(From left) Queen Latifah, Helen Mirren and Pamela Anderson.
AARP (Getty Images, 3)

1. Give your breasts a little lift.

Large breasts take up more torso space than smaller ones and have increased projection. This is not a problem until you climb out of your home-alone clothes and get dressed for life. That’s when a low-lift bra or bralette lets you down. Women with sizable chests often say, “My boobs and waist are competing for space,” and it’s true. What you and every other busty woman need is a bra with enough oomph to lift your breasts up and off your rib cage. This instantly adds the essential inch or two of extra torso, so your breasts and waist gain separation. 

However, lifting your bust’s level from lower on your midriff to a point midway between your shoulder and elbow is the real game changer here. It restores a perky silhouette (front and side views!) and improves the fit of whatever you’re wearing. Look at how some voluptuous celebs benefit from this lift-and-shape trick.

different products
(From left) Fruit of the Loom Women’s Breathable Spacer T-Shirt Bra in Desert Dusk; Bali’s Coolest Smoothing Underwire Minimizer Bra DF4584 in Evening Blush.
AARP (Target, Kohl’s)

2. Buy a cool-girl bra with full-coverage benefits.

Every woman over 50 with a big bust knows what the phrase “granny bra” means. No offense to grandmas (I’m one, too!), but hefty full-coverage bras that look more like armor than lingerie make women who need extra support cringe.

The good news is that modern bras with additional support, shaping and a lot more sex appeal make achieving the lifted look in tip #1 easy. Choose a smooth full-coverage style — whether a shape-making T-shirt bra or volume-reducing minimizer — that tucks in all your breast tissue for a smooth line with no hint of a double boob or spillage at the top or sides. T-shirt bras (wire or wire-free) have ultra-subtle padding that gives a full chest a natural rounded look, while the minimizer styles are designed to use targeted compression to reduce bust projection up to 1 1/2inches. 

Good examples with a wide range of band and cup sizes are the Soma Bodify Perfect Coverage Bra ($68, soma.com), Natori Comfort Evolution Full Fit T-Shirt Bra in Black ($74, barenecessities.com), Fruit of the Loom Women’s Breathable Spacer T-Shirt Bra in Rose Shadow, Desert Dusk or Black ($20, target.com) and Bali’s Coolest Smoothing Underwire Minimizer Bra DF4584 ($48, kohls.com). Don’t be afraid of the minimal padding. It doesn’t add bulk, and its ability to improve bust shape is a plus, especially when your breasts are shallow on top, uneven in size or wide-spaced with all the volume at the outer edges.

different stars
(From left) Meryl Streep; Lane Bryant Swing 3/4-Sleeve Pleat-Front Top in Deep Blue; H&M Women V-Neck Blouse in Cream.
AARP (Getty Images, Lane Bryant, H&M)

3. Get into power-V necklines.

Yes, high-neck turtlenecks, crews and mock necks are cozy, but lower Vs are a big bust’s BFF. Here’s why: A high neckline closes up the border between your neck and bust, so it appears to be a broad, solid unit. Your eye is drawn straight to the most outstanding visual … you guessed it, your breasts. Lower necklines open that border and break up the distance between the neck and bust. 

By strategically exposing more skin, your neck appears longer, and your eye goes to the neckline, not your bust. It’s an optical diversion that works, and the most effective necklines that achieve this are V-necks, especially wider ones and those that end anywhere from mid-breastbone to an inch above your cleavage. 

Perfect examples are the Kiyonna Women’s Plus Size Faux Wrap Top in Nouveau Navy ($68, nordstrom.com), the Lane Bryant Swing 3/4-Sleeve Pleat-Front Top in Deep Blue ($47, lanebryant.com) and the H&M Women V-Neck Blouse in Cream or Dusty Blue ($20, www2.hm.com/en_us/). Also suitable are henleys, polo-collar tops and button-up shirts, which give a similar effect when unbuttoned to a V. Be sure to tug the neckline apart once unbuttoned to get a true V. Not a V fan? Try showing more neck skin with a shallow scoop, often called a “ballet” neckline, cowls and boatnecks.

different products
(From left) Sherri Shepherd; Sonoma Goods for Life Women’s Relaxed Waffle Henley Top in Pink Theme; Jockey Women’s 100% Cotton Rib Tank in Black.
AARP (Getty Images, Kohl’s, Target)

4. Choose bust-friendly sleeves.

I bet you never heard this one! Even tees and dresses with bust-enhancing necklines can derail flattery at the sleeves. That’s because any short sleeve that ends on a level with your bust (a straight “tee” sleeve, a flutter or puff style) optically extends and expands the bust and gives it more attention. 

Instead, go shorter with a cap like the Donna Karan New York Cap Sleeve Cowl Neck Top in Cream ($69, nordstrom.com), longer to an elbow length like the Chico’s Pima Cotton Bateau-Neck Tee in Dried Roses or Alabaster ($46, chicos.com) or opt for three-quarter or full-length sleeves. To ease the bust, look for relaxed tops with a dropped shoulder seam on the sleeve like the Sonoma Goods for Life Women’s Relaxed Waffle Henley Top in Pink Theme or Sea Violet ($30, kohls.com). What about tank tops? Choose those with widely spaced bra-friendly straps like the Jockey Women’s 100% Cotton Rib Tank in Black or White ($20, target.com) for the most versatility.

different products
(From left) A New Day Women’s Bow Buckle Belt in Black; J. Crew Factory Women’s Leopard Calf Hair Belt.
AARP (Target, J. Crew)

5. Emphasize a waist even if you don’t have one.

A major part of dressing for a big bust is avoiding a boxy or top-heavy look and a blurry middle where breasts and midriff are crammed together. Defining the waist solves this for a shapely balanced effect. Think you don’t have a waist? Let me remind you that once that bra lifts your breasts off the midriff, you will have extra inches of space and separation. This makes it possible to play up an existing waist, amplify a subtle indent or even create the illusion of a waist that isn’t really there. 

You can do this with the clothes you already own by adding a slim belt to oversized tops and tunics or doing a semi-tuck with tops and jeans. Narrow belts in leather or chain links such as the A New Day Women’s Bow Buckle Belt in Black ($16, target.com), Chico’s Gold-Tone Pebbles Chain Belt ($49-, chicos.com) and the J. Crew Factory Women’s Leopard Calf Hair Belt ($35, factory.jcrew.com) are more useful than wide ones since they take up less midriff room. Be sure to avoid a tightly cinched look. Just sling on the belt casually while breathing out for a definition that looks authentic. Other useful waist definers for beginners are high-rise pants, peplum tops and wrap tops and dresses (see tip #6).

different stars
(From left) Patricia Arquette; Jean Smart; Torrid Surplice Wrap Midi Dress in Kayla Stripe Peacoat.
AARP (Getty Images, 2; Torrid)

6. Shape an hourglass look with wrap tops and dresses.

Wrap styles are a magical fashion solution for busty women. The crossover does it all by creating a V for bust lift and separation and a defined waist. 

Dresses like the Torrid Surplice Wrap Midi Dress in Kayla Stripe Peacoat ($45, torrid.com) and the Maggy London Abstract Print Front Wrap Midi Dress in Royal Navy/Bone ($87, nordstrom.com) have a fit-and-flare look that produces an instant hourglass silhouette by balancing a large bust and your bottom half. You can get the same effect by pairing wrap tops like Lands’ End Women’s Elbow Sleeve Lightweight Jersey Side Tie Blouse in Black Large Flower Patch ($48, landsend.com) and Talbots Happy Stripe Wrap Top in Vista Blue Multi ($100, talbots.com) with wide-leg or flared pants, an A-like skirt or flowy midi. Just be sure the wrap-style top or dress has enough fabric to cover your breasts and bra without a major cleavage show. 

This lets you move and bend without fear of fallout. Faux wraps (known as surplice wraps) work in a similar way but offer less control over the wrap for shaping. Unfortunately, wraps of any kind are not always easy to find, so I always encourage women to snap these up when they see them.

different stars
(From left) Tia Carrere, Salma Hayek and Nava Mau.
AARP (Getty Images, 3)

7.  Show off your bust in a form-fitted look.

Instead of always trying to minimize or camouflage a bigger bust, why not revel in having one? However, there’s a big difference between defining your breasts and going overboard. Stick to showing the shape, not your cleavage, and balance form-fitting bodysuits and tops with generously cut bottoms like (again!) wide-leg pants, flared jeans and A-line midis to avoid a top-heavy look. And if you love to dress up, or have festive events coming up, take advantage of your bosom’s allure in dresses that make the most of curves and your strong natural shoulder line — a favorite choice for busty celebs. This is when to slip on a strapless dress with a structured top and a curved top-line, a halter style or even an off-the-shoulder look to make the most of your assets (even high-neck halters work here due to the strong horizontal shoulder emphasis that balances a big chest).

different products
(From left) Padma Lakshmi; Quince 100% Organic Cotton Knit Blazer in Cappuccino; J.Jill Pure Jill Indigo Open-Front Jacket in Midnight Wash.
AARP (Getty Images, Quince, J. Jill)

8. Count on a blazer to add structure.

Sometimes you just want to minimize the soft curves of a big bust. Throwing on a blazer gives you a crisper, sharper silhouette, thanks to the structure. Be sure to skip oversized boxy styles that just amplify a “big” look and opt for relaxed blazers like the J.Jill Pure Jill Indigo Open-Front Jacket in Midnight Wash ($119, jjill.com), the Banana Republic Factory Boyfriend Blazer in Martini Olive ($85, bananarepublicfactory.gapfactory.com) and the Quince 100% Organic Cotton Knit Blazer in Cappuccino ($80, quince.com) for sleek contours without excess volume. 

One of the best bust-boosting tricks is to layer a contrasting color blazer over a dark top (with a flattering low V or scoop neckline) and matching dark pants — for example, an olive blazer over a black scoop-neck tank and black jeans. This creates a column of dark color framed by a lighter or brighter color for an overall trim silhouette.

different products
(From left) Eloquii Preppy Striped Button Down in Black Stripe; Loft Striped Poplin Pleated Belted Top in Black.
AARP (Eloquii, LOFT)

9. Wear vertical stripes instead of horizontal ones.

Many women love striped boatneck tees and buy them on repeat. Don’t keep falling for them! Those horizontal lines emphasize a large bust and make it look even broader and fuller. Instead, stick to stripes that run vertically, such as the Ann Taylor Striped Relaxed Perfect Shirt in Black ($63, anntaylor.com), the Loft Striped Poplin Pleated Belted Top in Black ($42, loft.com) and the Eloquii Preppy Striped Button Down in Black Stripe ($56-, eloquii.com) or opt for the nautical boatnecks you adore in solid colors. Vertical stripes in tops and dresses have a slimming, elongating effect that works for your bust and body, making it one of this spring’s major trends.

different products
(From left) Gap Modern V-Neck T-Shirt in Black; Nic + Zoe Geo Pebble Faux Wrap Top in Indigo Multi.
AARP (GAP, Nordstrom)

10. Divert the eye in black and prints.

Color can be an effective ally in dressing a large bust. Remember that anything in a dark color recedes, diminishes and looks smaller, while anything in a light or bright color gets more attention. It’s why wearing black is a tried-and-true strategy for those on a diet — and it works for a big bust, too. In fact, black can even free a big bust with edgy fashion tastes to wear high-necked turtles, form-fitting dresses and ribbed knits without a second thought. Stick to strong, simple lines for your black pieces since details like frills and lacing detract from the hue’s mission. Try a black V-neck top like the Gap Modern V-Neck T-Shirt in Black ($30, gap.com) with white pants for a quick but efficient example that’s all optics. So over wearing black? All-over prints in florals, leopard and artsy patterns keep the eye moving and, like black, hide a big bust in plain sight. Take advantage of print pieces like the White House Black Market Ruched Sleeve Shirt in Leopard Drift Ecru ($70, whitehouseblackmarket.com), the Chico’s Floral Flutter-Sleeve Maxi Dress in Black ($97, chicos.com) or the Nic+Zoe Geo Pebble Faux Wrap Top in Indigo Multi ($138, nordstrom.com), and whether you’re a 34D, a 36DDD or a 38G, enjoy your super style.

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