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Dark spots are the new wrinkles. Whether you call them age spots, sunspots, liver spots or brown spots, we want them gone. You have two options for dealing with them: Either make it a DIY project (less expensive, painless, no downtime but requires patience), or let a dermatologist take over with in-office procedures (costly, more immediate results, requires downtime and there’s a definite ouch factor). Here’s expert advice from three board-certified dermatologists — Christine Choi Kim, M.D., of Los Angeles; Corey L. Hartman, M.D., of Birmingham, Alabama; and Joshua Zeichner, M.D., of New York City — plus a few beauty editor tips from me.
1. Make mineral-based sunscreen a daily habit
Prevention is an essential part of the solution, and here’s why. Continued sun exposure revs up pigment production, activates new spots and darkens older ones — sabotaging any dermatological treatments or topical products you’re applying. Think of this as part of your wellness strategy, like eating healthy or exercise. It will pay off in the long run. “Brown spots have a tendency to recur, regardless of how they are treated — by laser, IPL [intense pulsed light], chemical peels or liquid nitrogen,” Kim says. “Therefore, sun protection year-round is an absolute must in preventing new brown spots and protecting skin that has been treated. I recommend sunscreens containing titanium dioxide and zinc oxide because they offer superior broad-spectrum protection for UVA and UVB [ultraviolet] rays, are less allergenic than chemical sunscreens and are not harmful to marine life. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends using a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30, which blocks 97 percent of UVB rays.” To recap: Even spots you’ve treated at home can come back unless you make mineral-based sunscreen part of the plan. Also apply mineral “face” sunscreen to hands, neck and chest — any place that’s vulnerable and visible to the sun.
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2. Check your spots with a dermatologist before DIY dabbling
If you’re opting for at-home treatment and have not had your yearly skin cancer check, schedule one. “Many brown spots are harmless benign moles and growths, but it takes a trained eye to discover whether a brown spot is normal or should be examined more closely,” Kim explains. “If your dermatologist thinks a spot looks suspicious, she may recommend a biopsy.” Hold off on taking those discolorations into your own hands until you get the green light from your doctor.
3. Cover them with makeup
Discolorations after age 50 are annoying but normal. “Women of every skin color see changes in the color of their skin as they get older: Some get dark spots, but others get light spots, and some develop broken blood vessels or red spots,” Hartman says. “And many get a combination of all three, which are called poikiloderma.” Discolorations that are not a health risk can easily be camouflaged with foundation. Try one of the high-pigment, lightweight formulas — such as Milani Conceal + Perfect 2-in-1 Foundation + Concealer ($13, target.com) with 39 shades, IT Cosmetics CC+ Nude Glow Lightweight Foundation + Glow Serum With SPF 40 ($47, ulta.com) with 22 shades, Dermablend Flawless Creator Liquid Foundation Drops ($42, dermablend.com) with 20 shades or Charlotte Tilbury Beautiful Skin Foundation ($49, sephora.com) with 30 shades — instead of fiddling around with a bunch of concealers. These next-level face makeups really do cover and look skin-like — not dry, cakey or fake. A small amount goes a long way.
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