You May Not Have Thought Rwanda Was Perfect for Travelers 50+; This Is What I Found

Akagera National Park: About two and a half hours from Kigali, this must-see destination offers traditional safari experiences featuring the “Big Five” — lions, elephants, buffalo, leopards and rhinos — but without the crowds often found in Kenya or Tanzania. Also, whereas gorilla trekking in Rwanda costs $1,500 a person and requires special permits, the entrance fee at Akagera was much more wallet-friendly at $100 per person for international visitors.

As we whizzed across the savannah landscape at Akagera in an open-air 4x4 vehicle, our guide, Ahorukomeye Amour, helped us spot everything from antelopes and elephants to giraffes and zebras, all while regaling us with stories about the wildlife and about himself, a reformed poacher turned passionate conservationist.

In previous decades, “we killed more than half of the animal population in this park,” Amour admitted ruefully. “But now my life is really connected with this national park, these animals and nature.”

Writer Lynnette Khalfani-Cox, left, tried to mimic Claudine Bihoyiki’s weaving technique at Nyamirambo Women’s Center.

Courtesy Lynnette Khalfani-Cox

Cultural immersion: At the Nyamirambo Women’s Center (NWC) in Kigali, I took a 3.5-hour cooking class, learning to prepare traditional Rwandan dishes from local staples like cassava and dodo, which is like spinach. As we peeled plantains and potatoes, and chopped onions and tomatoes, my hosts shared stories about their lives along with facts about “the land of a thousand hills,” as Rwanda is often called.

I also took a basket-weaving lesson through the NWC and tried my hand at making earrings, an activity where I attempted (badly!) to mimic the technique of a skilled artisan named Claudine Bihoyiki. She showed me the care, precision and pride embedded in the painstaking task of weaving from plant fibers. Basket weaving and sewing let women at the NWC earn a fair wage and support the center’s broader gender equality efforts: fostering entrepreneurship and developing job skills for women.

“We are always thinking of new ways to develop income streams,” says Mary Nyangoma, one of the 18 founders of the NWC.

For only $18 per activity, I was happy to spend a day supporting community-based tourism, which offered cultural insights no luxury tour could deliver.

(From left) Lake Kivu is an inland sea on Rwanda’s western border; this is the view from Lake Kivu Serena Hotel.

Courtesy Lynnette Khalfani-Cox

Lake Kivu: During our April trip, we spent three days along this stunning inland sea on Rwanda’s western border. The uncrowded lake offers tranquil boat excursions and waterfront accommodations at a fraction of Swiss or Italian prices. Our stay at the elegant Lake Kivu Serena Hotel ($184 a night, after a 15 percent promotional discount) put us steps from the water, gave us clear views of Lake Kivu and provided access to kayaks, boating and an assortment of water activities.

Kigali Genocide Memorial: For travelers over 50, Rwanda offers something beyond beautiful landscapes. It offers a powerful narrative of resilience and rebuilding that resonates with those who witnessed its darkest chapter through news reports three decades ago.

The Kigali Genocide Memorial provides a moving educational experience that delivers essential context. When our driver, Tuyishimire, dropped us there, his expression changed noticeably. “I’ll wait for you here,” he said quietly. We later learned that Tuyishimire was a child when his father was killed during the genocide.

Yet rather than defining itself by tragedy, Rwanda has created history’s perhaps most remarkable national recovery story. It’s a transformation that must be experienced to be fully appreciated.