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Gel, Dip or Stick-On? Your Ultimate Manicure Guide

Find out which type of nails fits your style and budget


spinner image a woman is holding another womans hand as she paints her nails red
Getty Images

Have you ever had a fresh manicure smudge the minute you dug into your wallet for a credit card or gotten a chip on red nails zipping up your jeans? Those days are history, thanks to manicures that go bone-dry in minutes and last weeks. If you’re wondering what color polish will rock your paws, whether to opt for a gel or dip powder and which nail shape truly flatters mature hands best, read on! I asked celebrity nail guru Deborah Lippmann, who has her own eponymous line, for tips to go along with my own beauty editor advice. Here’s how to nail your next manicure if you’re:

spinner image a nail technician putting on red nail polish on a client's fingernail and a close up of a woman's thumbs with red fingernails typing on a smartphone
Andia/Universal Images Group via Getty Images; Patrick Pleul/picture alliance via Getty Images

1. New to gel manicures

Thinking about switching from regular polish to a gel? Lots of women are doing exactly that since gel polish extends a manicure’s wear and shine to two stress-free weeks. Applied just like regular polish over a base coat and “cured” (that is, hardened) with a UV lamp between coats and after a topcoat, gel polish has the extra-strong adherence that sticks to the nail bed (thanks to polymers in the formulas). And yes, it’s more expensive. While a regular salon mani is about $20, a gel manicure is $25 to $50 and polish removal about $10 to $20 — prices vary depending on the salon and location.

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The big issue with gels is improper removal that results in damage, so resist any impulse to peel off the polish on your own and head back to the salon.

  • Ask for “soak-off” gel polish in the first place, then be sure the nail tech applies acetone-soaked cotton balls wrapped in aluminum foil to each nail for 10 minutes. Avoid using a nail drill for removal, since that will also harm the nail surface.
  • At-home gel manicure kits and LED lamps do exist, but let’s be honest, they are complicated and require skill, patience and dedication. (Just see tip number 4 for a safe, long-wear DIY manicure choice.)
spinner image a woman's hand inside a nail lamp dryer during a manicure
StockPlanets/Getty Images

2. Deciding between dip powder, gel and shellac

The menu of salon nail options for extended color and shine can be confusing. For example, “shellac” (often referred to as a gel) is actually a trademarked hybrid of regular polish and gel, while gels are pure gel. Gels typically last longer, but shellac soaks off more easily. Dip powder manicures are a next-level option and cost more — $30 to $70 — but there’s a major difference. “Dip powder manicures offer an even longer life span — often four weeks — and no use of UV rays,” Lippman says. In a dip manicure, the nail tech dunks each nail in pigmented powder which is then sealed with an activator and air-dried; it is removed with acetone-soaked cotton balls, similar to gel. To recap: Gel, shellac and dip powder manicures offer flawless, chip-free long-wear color; dip powder does not require UV or LED light to set, while gel and shellac manicures do. Lippman advises that hot water is the enemy of all three. That means any dishwashing or household chores minus gloves and any soaking in a hot tub or even a steamy shower or bath can wreck your mani in a flash. Pampering your hands daily is a must.

spinner image a close up of three sets of manicured nail art in a reddish color pink color and neon green color
Clockwise from left: mikroman6/Getty Images; Oleksandr Smirnov/500px/Getty Images; mikroman6/Getty Images

3. Thinking of adding artificial length to your nails 

Nails change with age and may become increasingly dry and prone to breaking, overgrown by tough cuticles or slow to grow.

  • Drugstore stick-ons that increase length are a one-night-only option.
  • If you crave everyday long nails, gel extensions (these are different from gel polish) run $80 to $120; acrylics cost $40 to $100. Both can be used with regular, gel or dip powder polish. Gel extensions (also known as sculpted nails) are built onto your natural nails at the tip, so they require a tiny bit of natural growth. They are newer, more flexible, more natural-looking than acrylics, and the process is faster, has no chemical odor and is said to be less damaging in the long run. They’re a good option if your nails are hard but brittle or you just want a realistic long length.
  • Acrylics are old-school lengtheners created from a mix of powder and liquid. They are stronger, which may be an asset if your natural nails tend to be soft or split, and they lend themselves to extreme lengths and shapes (coffin nails, anyone?).

They are not a low-maintenance choice. Nails are filed down first for grip. Refills are necessary for both kinds of nail extensions — two to three or even four weeks later (depending on your nail growth pattern) when a gap is visible at the nail bed, and removal is always salon-only services for safety. If you do sports, swim, cook, make art or garden, be realistic about length.

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spinner image Revlon ColorStay Gel Envy Longwear Nail Polish in Wild Card; Nails Inc Gel Effect Nail Polish in St. James; Sally Hansen Miracle Gel Nail Color in Sun Shower; Essie Gel Couture Long Lasting Nail Polish in Electric Geometric
(Left to right) Revlon ColorStay Gel Envy Longwear Nail Polish in Wild Card; Nails Inc Gel Effect Nail Polish in St. James; Sally Hansen Miracle Gel Nail Color in Sun Shower; Essie Gel Couture Long Lasting Nail Polish in Electric Geometric
Walmart; Nails Inc; CVS; Walgreens

4. Wanting a better DIY option

Salon nails are an occasional treat for some and a monthly must for others, but either way, don’t give up on DIY nails. “Salon manicures do tend to last longer than at-home ones, thanks to skilled technicians, cuticle care, nail shaping and high-wattage lamps that speed curing for a durable, hardened layer of polish,” Lippman says. “But if you like to change polish color often, at-home gels are a good alternative to salon manicures and last longer than traditional nail polish.” I couldn’t agree more. At-home gel polishes are quick to apply and remove, stay chip-free and shiny for a full week and require no LED or UV light. They take a little longer to dry than salon gels but remove like regular polish. Apply at-home gel polish in thin coats, wait five minutes between coats and 15 to 20 minutes after the topcoat before dressing. The polish is a little more expensive, but the benefits are worth it. You might try Revlon ColorStay Gel Envy Longwear Nail Polish in Wild Card ($12, walmart.com), Nails Inc Gel Effect Nail Polish in St. James ($15, anthropologie.com), Sally Hansen Miracle Gel Nail Color in Sun Shower ($13, cvs.com) or Essie Gel Couture Long Lasting Nail Polish in Electric Geometric ($14, walgreens.com). There are no rules about color! The chip-free benefit makes reds, brights and unusual shades you might otherwise ignore — such as blues, grays or greens — appealing.

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spinner image Dior Vernis Gel Shine & Longer Nail Lacquer in 080 Red Smile; Deborah Lippmann Gel Lab Pro Nail Polish in Genius of Love; Sally Hansen Miracle Gel Nail Color in Sundown Socialite
(Left to right) Dior Vernis Gel Shine & Longer Nail Lacquer in 080 Red Smile; Deborah Lippmann Gel Lab Pro Nail Polish in Genius of Love; Sally Hansen Miracle Gel Nail Polish in Sundown Socialite
Nordstrom (2); Ulta Beauty

5. In need of advice about nail shape and polish color

If you’re 50, you know French manicures defined the ’70s, red polish the ’80s, inky darks the ’90s, and pinky-beige has been the default shade ever after. Manicures still offer a quick, risk-free way to change up your looks and make a style statement. “My favorite shapes for flattery are the elongating almond or oval, but any shape and length can work,” Lippman says. “The key is keeping nails a consistent length and shape and cuticles healthy with oils and creams. Though dark polishes and nudes tend to be go-tos for women 50-plus, there’s been a major shift to pastels and brights that provide a pop of color and draw attention away from veins and dark spots, especially orangey shades, and bright reds.” I’ll note that milky white polishes, pastels and gleamy chrome or sparkling topcoats provide the most satisfying update for those who usually wear sheer pinks and nudes. Corals and warm reds such as Dior Vernis Gel Shine & Longer Nail Lacquer in 080 Red Smile ($30, nordstrom.com), Deborah Lippmann Gel Lab Pro Nail Polish in Genius of Love ($20, nordstrom.com) and Sally Hansen Miracle Gel Nail Polish in Sundown Socialite ($13, ulta.com) counteract dark spots and veins much the same way peachy under-eye concealer cancels dark circles.

spinner image Zoya Nail Polish in Dacey; ella+mila Love Nail Polish Collection in Pure Love; Tenoverten Natural Nail Color in Austin
(Left to right) Zoya Nail Polish in Dacey; ella+mila Love Nail Polish Collection in Pure Love; Tenoverten Natural Nail Color in Austin
Ulta Beauty; Target; Amazon

6. Concerned about nail health and manicures

The wear and tear of maintaining beautiful nails really comes down to you. Any indication of improper salon application or removal on gels, dip powder or extensions (and yes, it can happen), such as nail thinning, brittleness, peeling or cracking, is a signal to take a gel break and change to repair mode with cuticle- and nail-pampering oils and creams and stick to your natural nails instead of lengtheners. For some, even if the manicure looks pristine on the surface, damage and breakage can occur so you may want to remove after 2.5 weeks.

  • Apply sunscreen to the backs of your hands if you do use UV light (some experts link UV lamps to skin cancer).
  • For hygiene’s sake, ask the nail tech to sprinkle dip powder over your nails instead of dipping fingers into a communal powder pot used by other clients.
  • Request cuticles be pushed back instead of cut.
  • See your physician and avoid manicures if you have an allergic reaction, any sort of infection from bacterial to fungal, swelling of hands or fingers, cuts or abrasions (especially if diabetic), or if you are having in-hospital surgery. True nail bed color during and after surgery gives doctors and nurses an indication of healthy circulation.

Some women opt for manicures with clean polish brands that are specifically labeled as vegan, eco-friendly and minus potentially harmful ingredients such as formaldehyde, toluene and dibutyl phthalate (the big three). You’ll see “three-free,” “seven-free” and even “17-free” on the label. You may want to try nontoxic brands of regular polish. Three good choices for summer 2023 include Zoya Nail Polish in Dacey ($12, ulta.com), a hot pink that is 10-free; ella+mila Love Nail Polish Collection in Pure Love ($10, target.com), a trendy vanilla that’s 17-free; and Tenoverten Natural Nail Color in Austin ($14, amazon.com), a summery blue that is eight-free.

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