Beauty: Love the Skin You're In

And take these simple steps to protect it

By: Carla Engler | Source: AARP.org | January 7, 2003

Beauty's skin-deep. No wonder our longing for better-looking skin increases as we age. And cosmetics companies are on the case. "The skin care industry has exploded in the last five years," says Patricia Farris, M.D., assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Tulane University. "The science is better, the ingredients are more effective, and the interest in aging well is skyrocketing."

Looking better with age involves protecting skin from its enemies: winter, with damaging winds and drying indoor heat, and the sun. Eighty to 90 percent of the visible aging process comes from the rays, says Bruce Katz, M.D., dermatologist and founder of the Juva Skin and Laser Center in New York. There are many treatments to help minimize these effects—Botox and laser and chemical peels top the list—but they're costly, and too extreme for many of us. Consult your doctor if you're interested in pursuing them. Or use one of the latest in a surge of new products to achieve better-looking skin now—easily and safely.

From licorice to green tea and vitamins C, A, B, and E, natural ingredients are the big trend. They're used as active agents, meaning that they can have a mild, temporarily enhancing effect on the skin. Used in doctor-administered doses, they can produce more dramatic effects.

What to look for? Vitamin C, an antioxidant that stimulates collagen production and firms skin, is one of the most popular. Find it in Estée Lauder's Perfectionist Correcting Serum. Vitamin A also boosts collagen and stops collagen breakdown that occurs after sun exposure. Try it in Olay's Total Effects With Pro-Retinol and Aramis Lab Series for Men Age Rescue. Copper peptides (in Neutrogena's Visibly Firm With Active Copper Night Cream) also aid collagen production; they've even been used to help heal post-surgical wounds.

Do these active agents really act? "The evidence these ingredients work walks through our doors every day," says Katz.

Reversal of Fortune

Richer moisturizers are good for older, drier skin. (Reach for Therapy Systems' Intensive Therapy Rx.) But moisturizer alone won't help repair sun damage. To really undo some of the sun's ill effects, ask your doctor about prescription doses of the active ingredients mentioned here. Or try one of these reparative treatments: Lancome's Absolute Night Recovery Treatment or Clinique's Repairwear Intensive Night Cream.

The Daily 1-2-3

As in other areas of life—diet, exercise—it's good to have a routine. To look your best, it's essential to use a cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen daily, and there's no such thing as using sunscreen too often. "I tell patients it should be like brushing your teeth every day," says New York dermatologist Roy Geronemous, M.D. Cleansers should be effective, but not harsh or drying. A good option is Kiehl's Gentle Foaming Facial Cleanser; a more active one, such as Nivea Men's Double Action Face Wash, is good for thicker male skin. Moisturizers are crucial—hydrating can improve the skin's appearance 10 to 15 percent, says Katz. New moisturizers with sunscreen or active ingredients include Elizabeth Arden's First Defense Cream SPF 15 and Zirh's Protect. While multi-use products are convenient, some experts say the simpler the product, the better the results. If you tend to side with the purists, try this straight moisturizer: Burt's Bees' Marshmallow Vanishing Creme.