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What to Do and Where to Eat in Cancún

Explore beaches and Mayan culture, snorkel, visit Isla Mujeres and more

spinner image Tulum
Tulum
Kelly Cheng Travel Photography/Getty Images

Beaches

This is why you visit, right? For Cancún’s 14 miles of warm-water beach bliss. The Hotel Zone’s north-facing beaches along the top of the “7”-shaped island are protected by a calm bay, while east-facing beaches along the leg are pummeled by the Caribbean. Though lacking the intense turquoise hues, tranquil waters off the northern beaches are ideal for swimming, especially for novices, children and those less steady on their feet. East-facing beaches have no buffer from the wind and can have treacherous currents and crashing waves, but they are unmatched for sunbathing and camera-ready scenic beauty. Take lifeguards’ signals and the color-coded warning flags seriously wherever you go.

You don’t have to stay in a big resort or join a beach club to enjoy Cancún’s beaches. By law, they’re all public property, including those claimed by resorts; 11 are designated public access beaches.

Food, drink and water-sports rentals are available at most beaches, though chairs or beach umbrellas may belong to individual resorts. Seven strands are considered Blue Flag beaches, certified for water quality, safety and accessibility; they provide bathrooms, changing rooms, showers, ramps, palapas and playgrounds.

One of these, the never-crowded Playa Delfines, is Cancún’s most beautiful beach and the only one not blocked off by a resort. Another, Playa Las Perlas, became the city’s first fully accessible beach in 2017. It has access ramps, amphibious beach chairs, accessible bathrooms and other helpful features.

Standout Riviera Maya beaches include Puerto Morelos, whose pristine coral reef offers superb snorkeling and diving; Playa Norte, Isla Mujeres’ stunning (but often crowded) swimming beach; and roomy Xpu-Ha, on a wide bay mercifully free of huge resorts. Playa Punta Esmeralda in Playa del Carmen has accessible bathrooms, showers and beach wheelchairs you can use for no charge. Though Tulum’s sublime swath of sand is perpetually packed, Playa Paraíso­­, between the ruins and the hotel strip, is rarely crowded and rewards a short swim from shore with a view of ancient temples. Sun beds with beach umbrellas are available for rent.

Archaeological sites

All over the Yucatán, thousands of green “hills” are in fact vestiges of the ancient Maya’s advanced civilization, now reclaimed by jungle. And many visitors are surprised to find you can visit excavated sites even in Cancún.

El Rey may be the Hotel Zone’s most tranquil spot, with broken columns and palace stairs-to-nowhere standing in surreal juxtaposition to the Iberostar Cancún’s faux pyramid next door. The tallest pyramid in the area (climbing is prohibited) is hidden in deep jungle at the sparsely visited El Meco, just north of the Centro. Its resemblance to Chichen Itza is striking.

In the Riviera Maya, the beautiful if overly reconstructed walled city of Tulum is famous for its perch above the Caribbean. Hilly, sandy terrain in spots poses challenges for some wheelchair users, but the information center lends out a special wide-tired chair to make it easier to get around. Most of the enormous site of Cobá, in the jungle east of Tulum, slumbers under vegetation, creating a sense of ancient spirits undisturbed. It would daunt visitors with mobility issues if not for the squadron of triciclos (traditional Mayan tricycles), whose drivers will pedal you around for a small fee.

By far the largest and most impressive Mayan archaeological ruins site in the region, Chichen Itza was named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World in 2007. Several buildings have survived on the sacred site, including El Castillo, a 98-foot pyramid of stone. If you’re not fit, you won’t want to climb the ruins. But there’s still plenty to see just strolling around. And the generally flat landscape makes getting around feasible for those in wheelchairs, too. To visit the site, about a two-hour drive from Cancún, arrange a tour through your hotel. Bite the bullet and opt for one that leaves very early in the morning, as you’ll want to get there as close to 9 a.m., when the site opens, as possible. That’s when tourists are few and the weather is still pleasant and not so hot.

Archaeological sites have bathrooms and sometimes a picnic table or food concession near the entrance, but there are no benches or other anachronistic structures. Though wheelchairs might not be able to navigate every corner of these sites, they are mostly walkable even by those with walkers or canes except for some buildings located off the main paths.

Nature sites

The Yucatán harbors more natural marvels than one person could explore in a lifetime, but some simply should not be missed. Topping that list is the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, a 1.3 million-acre tract of protected jungle, beaches and cenotes (lagoons and caves where freshwater underground rivers meet the Caribbean Sea) barely changed over the millennia. You can explore some of its beaches on your own, but to find the secret jungle paths that plunge you into the Mayan world, book a tour from Visit Sian Ka’an or Community Tours Sian Ka’an. These groups take special care to enable people with mobility issues to explore the natural treasures here.

Xcaret eco-archaeological park corrals bits of the Yucatán’s best offerings, from snorkeling to wildlife watching (butterflies, jaguars, manatees) to nightly cultural shows. You can get a massage in a cavern lagoon; swim with sharks, dolphins or stingrays; and even walk on the bottom of the sea using an innovative Sea Trek helmet. The park is accessible except for a few steep, rocky passages. The visitor center rents wheelchairs and will help people with disabilities plan their day.

The water-oriented Xel-Há features activities in cenotes; maps with wheelchair access points are available. Both parks have active kids’ programs, making them a favorite for multigenerational groups.

Ways to save: Xcaret and Xel-Há offer online or advanced-booking discounts of up to 15 percent.

Snorkeling/diving

The world’s second-longest barrier reef beckons just offshore. A variety of operators, such as Scuba Cancún and Solo Buceo, provide snorkeling and diving excursions to this marine wonder, as well as to inland cenotes. You can also snorkel off many beaches, though most of Cancún’s reef is too damaged to be rewarding except at Punta Nizuc, at the island’s southern end. But if you want to be astonished by a kaleidoscope of fish and turtles and rays, drive 35 minutes south to Puerto Morelos. The reef here, which runs close to shore and to the water’s surface, is protected in a national marine park, and the water is calm. The fishermen’s co-op at the foot of the pier is a good place to book an excursion.

For a unique underwater experience, the Museo Subacuatico de Arte (MUSA, or Underwater Museum of Art, boasts nearly 500 submerged life-size concrete figures being “colonized” by marine life. The goal is to form an artificial reef to take pressure off natural reefs damaged by too much love from snorkelers and divers. Outfitters such as Aquaworld arrange for access for snorkelers and divers.

Isla Mujeres day trip

The 20-minute ferry crossing from Cancún to Isla Mujeres lands you in a world where sunbathing, snorkeling and diving are life’s priorities. Though the small island can get crowded during school holidays, it remains an easygoing tropical escape at heart. Since the island is only 4 miles long, there’s no need for a car. Instead, you can rent a golf cart to discover all the island has to offer. A pleasant mix of shops offers crafts and souvenirs at lower prices than in Cancún.

When postcard-perfect Playa Norte gets too crowded, head for Garrafón Natural Reef Park and Punta Sur, nature reserves at the island’s southern tip. Or walk among young sea turtles, from little flippers to Frisbee-sized adolescents, at the Tortugranja hatchery. From June through mid-September, “Isla” is also a popular departure point for whale shark tours.

Ferries to Isla Mujeres depart from Puerto Juárez north of Cancún Centro, at both the original dock and the newer Gran Puerto dock. More expensive, less frequent Hotel Zone ferries depart from Playa Tortugas, El Embarcadero at Playa Linda and Playa Caracol.

Tours­­­­­­­­

Smaller companies run by locals who are committed to preserving Mayan culture and the environment, such as EcoColors and Alltournative, offer intimate, well-run tours to archaeological sites, cenotes, eco-parks and traditional villages. Ecocolors also offers whale shark tours during the season.

Ways to save: Create your own tour by hiring a taxi by the hour or day. The per-person cost is considerably less than a packaged tour, and drivers often make decent guides.

Art/museums

In a destination better known for its high-octane club scene than cultural attractions, a few venues stand out. The excellent (and accessible) Museo Maya de Cancún, a beautiful contemporary space in the Hotel Zone, features Mayan archaeological artifacts from throughout the Yucatán Peninsula. It incorporates the small archaeological site of San Miguelito in a shady setting among mangroves.

Playa del Carmen offers several cultural and indoor activities. The interactive 3D Museum of Wonders, full of optical illusions, makes for a fun foray with the kids or grandkids. And the Sayab Planetarium also emphasizes kids’ programs alongside fun for all ages. The Riviera Art Gallery features a cross section of the galleries along northern Fifth Avenue, exhibiting an eclectic mix of contemporary Mexican, pop and international art.

Live performances

The big entertainment ticket here is Cirque du Soleil’s Joya, located between Puerto Morelos and Playa del Carmen. A Mexican folkloric fantasy underpins the troupe’s dazzling acrobatics and illusions, presented to pulsing Latin music.

Though Cancún’s rah-rah nightlife aims squarely at the under-30 set, Coco Bongo makes for a fun night out for anyone over 18. The spectacular show is equal parts Broadway musical, Vegas revue and, well, Cirque du Soleil. Avoid weekends, though; Mondays and Tuesdays are the least crowded. The club is accessible, with ramps and a lift available for those who need it.

Ways to save: You can shave roughly $45 (depending on seating) off your Joya ticket by choosing the show without dinner.

Shopping

Soak up the sounds and colors of a local market by visiting Tianguis de la 100, the biggest street market in Cancún. Not only is it great for people watching, but you can also buy vintage clothing and other fun items at low prices — especially if you know how to bargain. The market, at Calle 16, is open every Sunday from 6 a.m. to 4 p.m. If you want to explore the whole market, be sure to set aside a few hours. It’s wise to bring some small-bill Mexican pesos, too, as you’ll often get a better deal on purchases.

Dining out

Once dependent on U.S. franchises (think Ruth’s Chris Steak House and Hard Rock Cafe), the coast’s fine dining scene is taking off, thanks to the creativity of Mexican and international chefs. International food is still popular — most of the world’s cuisines are represented here — but it is likely to show up in creative fusion restaurants. El Centro is a hive of innovation these days, as young chefs pay tribute to their roots, with modern twists. But you can always count on Mexican standbys, such as moles, tacos and chiles rellenos, often with a regional interpretation.

Reservations aren’t necessary at casual restaurants, but popular upscale places may book up, especially during holiday seasons. You can reserve online at OpenTable or Cancún Menus. Some all-inclusive resorts also require reservations at their restaurants, which you should make in advance of your trip or as soon as you arrive.

Keep in mind that Mexico’s code of etiquette deems it rude to bring the check to a diner who hasn’t asked for it. A quick “La cuenta, por favor” will do the trick when you’re ready to pay.

Yucatecan eateries. A mash-up of native, European, Caribbean and Middle Eastern influences, Yucatecan cuisine is distinguished from other Mexican cooking by piquant achiote (i.e., annatto), tangy lime, sour orange and earthy pumpkin seeds. Like elsewhere in Mexico, peppers are pervasive, though they often take a back seat to the citrus.

The venerable temple of Yucatecan food is Labná in El Centro, but many restaurants serve the signature cochinita pibil (achiote-marinated pork baked in a pit), poc chuk (pork slices marinated in sour orange juice topped with pickled onions) and sopa de lima (chicken, tortilla and lime soup). La Habichuela turns local ingredients into showstoppers, like its famous cocobichuela — lobster and shrimp cooked in sweet curry presented in a coconut shell. Don’t miss zesty tikin-xic — achiote- and sour orange-marinated fish barbecued in banana leaves — another popular coastal dish.

Comfort food. Catering to locals, El Fish Fritanga in the Hotel Zone serves fresh, tasty seafood on a patio with palapa-shaded tables. El Fogón, with two locations on Playa del Carmen’s Fifth Avenue, is the official tourist taquería favorite, while Taqueria Don Beto in Tulum has mastered the cochinita pibil taco. Or visit Pescaditos, an authentic streetside fish restaurant in downtown Cancún. Not only is it cheap and popular with locals, but there’s often live music.

Ways to save: Visit that can’t-miss place for lunch, when a slightly smaller version of a dinner item doesn’t cost quite as much.

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