FEATURE STORY/TRAIN TRAVEL 2025
All Aboard!
Airplanes are cramped. Road trips are exhausting. For your next vacation, try taking a train instead
By Laura Kiniry
Amtrak’s Empire Builder on the shores of Lake Five near Coram, Montana
I can pinpoint the moment I fell in love with riding the rails. I was 24 years old and on the second evening of my first trip aboard Amtrak’s California Zephyr, which runs between Chicago and the San Francisco Bay Area. Sitting next to me in the dining car was a college grad en route to see her aunt in Reno and, across the table, a couple of sisters heading home to Lake Tahoe. The four of us swapped stories and laughed while enjoying plates of trout and chicken breast and peering out the window at Utah’s sandstone buttes, their muted colors transforming into shades of deep reds and oranges as the sun slipped below the horizon. This, I found myself thinking, is exactly where I want to be.
Now I’m 51 and have spent decades working as a travel journalist, and I’ve come to realize that trains are the best way to move about on vacation. According to a recent AARP survey, one-third of Americans age 50-plus are also inclined to travel by train, primed to experience what I find so alluring. Trains are spacious and come equipped with cafés and, often, dining cars that provide opportunities to meet other passengers or simply take some personal space as needed.
And the places I have gone! I’ve experienced one of the world’s steepest standard-gauge railway lines, Norway’s Flåm Railway, which winds its way around sharp curves and through lush mountain scenery. I’ve been mesmerized aboard Amtrak’s Empire Builder by the supreme grandeur of Montana’s Glacier National Park. I’ve journeyed across Australia’s Nullarbor Plain, a limestone plateau that includes the longest stretch of straight railway in the world: about 300 miles that highlight the country’s vastness.
The author, left, with traveling companion Adam Hodge in India
There’s also a romance to train travel. As depicted in Alfred Hitchcock’s North by Northwest and Wes Anderson’s The Darjeeling Limited, it holds the glamour of an earlier era. Of course, the reality is not quite the movies. Delays can be frequent, and railcars are often loud. But there’s one thing that stays true: Traveling by train is an adventure, providing a glimpse into worlds that may be invisible along highways and impossible to see at 30,000 feet. There’s something magical about rollicking through the Nebraska prairies or catching the lights switching on at dusk in small-town Iowa.
The encounters along the way can also amaze. When I arrived for my overnight ride aboard Vietnam’s Reunification Express in Ninh Binh, I was surprised to see a dozen local children practicing their English with Westerners—something they reportedly came to the station regularly to do. In India’s Rajasthan state, I toasted a complimentary cup of steaming masala chai with the proprietor of a railway station kiosk. He then extended a casual invitation to his 1,500-guest wedding. Some of my most memorable train journeys included stops in places I might not have otherwise visited: Spokane, Washington, where I took in spectacular views of its magnificent urban waterfall, and Western Australia’s Kalgoorlie, awash in gold rush history.
Back on board, I’ve marveled at Pennsylvania’s autumn foliage through the window, slurped a bowl of pho with crew members near the Vietnamese seaside city of Da Nang, and chatted up new acquaintances about the beauty of Washington’s Cascade Range in the observation car of Amtrak’s Empire Builder. All this without having to stay alert behind the wheel or adhere to a fasten-seatbelt sign.
In a world that moves at breakneck speed, railways let us slow down. From the moment I settle into my sleeper cabin or coach seat, the pressures of home slip away. My biggest worry is deciding what I’ll have for dinner. I don’t expect to get anywhere fast, but that’s much of the allure of train travel. It’s the ability to unwind, unplug and let the rails carry me while I just sit back and savor the ride.
Laura Kiniry is a freelance journalist based in San Francisco and a train enthusiast. She has written for numerous outlets, including Condé Nast Traveler and Smithsonian. Her most recent trip by rail was a journey from India’s Ranthambore railway station to Agra.
*Distance from a point on one seat to the same point on the seat in front of it
Let the good times roll
A train is not just transportation—it’s the vacation itself. Here are eight great rail adventures
Reporting by Larry Bleiberg, Bobbi Dempsey, Sheryl Jean, Veronica Stoddart and DeAnne Taylor
Rocky Mountaineer, between Denver, Colorado, and Moab, Utah
The one-night “Rockies to the Red Rocks” route travels through the Southwest from mid-April through mid-November. Passengers don’t sleep on the train but, rather, in the hot springs resort town of Glenwood Springs, Colorado. You’ll cross the Continental Divide and ride alongside the Colorado River, with snowcapped peaks and red rock canyons in view. *From $1,720.
Amtrak Empire Builder, between Chicago and the Pacific Northwest
On one of Amtrak’s most popular routes, the two-night, 46-hour Empire Builder provides a front-row seat to some of the most iconic scenery in the West. After the daily westbound train departs Chicago, you’ll have scenic views of the Mississippi River and the North Dakota plains and follow parts of the Lewis and Clark Trail. A highlight is Montana’s Glacier National Park. From Spokane, Washington, you can continue to Seattle or head down the Columbia River Gorge to Portland, with stunning views of Mount Hood. From $220.
Glacier Express, Switzerland
This candy-apple-red train connects the towns of Zermatt and St. Moritz, with about an eight-hour journey that cuts through a dramatic Alpine landscape. Break up the trip by stopping at resorts, such as the revitalized town of Andermatt. Booking a seat in the Excellence Class carriage gets you a champagne welcome and a five-course meal with wine. From $260.
VIA Rail’s The Canadian, between Toronto and Vancouver
This four-night trip spans more than 2,500 miles across Canada, taking in the lakes of Ontario and the prairies of Manitoba, the snow-streaked Rocky Mountains and the picturesque forests of British Columbia. Enjoy stops in vibrant cities such as Winnipeg and Edmonton. From $370.
La Dolce Vita Orient Express, Italy
Launched in April, this luxury train offers one- to three-night itineraries with stops at some of Italy’s most alluring destinations, including Venice and Rome. Along the way, take in picturesque villages and coastlines. A chef crafts gourmet onboard meals, paired with fine wines. From around $3,500.
Amtrak Downeaster, between Boston, Massachusetts, and Brunswick, Maine
Around 3½ hours in length, this route is a popular train to take for fall and winter getaways in New England, as colorful foliage and wintry snowscapes scroll past the large picture windows. From $30.
Great Journeys, New Zealand
The 18-day “Flavours of Aotearoa” itinerary travels from Auckland, on the North Island, to Queenstown, on the South Island. Watch for dolphins in Kaikōura, take part in wine tastings at vineyards in Marlborough, and enjoy the relaxing scent of lavender fields. Over the course of the trip, travelers will board three different trains and an interisland ferry and stay in four- to five-star hotels. From $9,800.
Denali Star, between Anchorage and Fairbanks, Alaska
While travelers can make the 356-mile, 12-hour trip in a day, many break it up with overnights in the funky town of Talkeetna or at the entrance to Denali National Park. Buses can take you into the wilderness home of grizzlies, moose, caribou and Dall sheep. The rail journey takes you through deep canyons, skirts wild rivers and crosses the 296-foot-tall Hurricane Gulch rail bridge. From $280.
INSIDER TIP!
Jeremy Larsen, 51, T1D Wanderer videos on YouTube
Mind your medication. On many trains, you can’t use the refrigerators or microwaves; they are for crew only. So Larsen, who has type 1 diabetes, packs his much-needed insulin in FRIO cooling pouches, which keep it cold for about 45 hours.
*Prices are approximate in U.S. dollars and subject to change.
The Rail Story
What to know about Amtrak train travel
AT THE STATION
When it comes to check-in and security lines, train stations are a breeze compared with airports. Plan to arrive between 30 and 60 minutes before departure, depending on whether you need help with luggage or have ticketing questions. Boarding gates aren’t typically posted until about 15 minutes before a train’s departure. Download Amtrak’s app for up-to-date info like track notifications. After you board and the train is in motion, a conductor will scan your ticket.
ON THE TRAIN
Passenger cars: These can be designated by class. Most common is coach class, but some trains also have business or first class. Quiet cars are also available on many of Amtrak’s regional or short-route trains. No talking on cellphones allowed! The seating configuration generally has two seats on either side of an aisle.
Tip: Choose a seat on the side of the train opposite the sun to avoid glare while viewing or photographing the scenery.
Dining cars: These moving restaurants are typically available on long-distance trains. If you’re traveling solo, you’ll likely be seated at a table with other passengers, offering a great opportunity to swap stories while you eat and drink. If you prefer privacy, sleeping-car passengers can have meals delivered to their room. Shorter-route trains may have only a café car, with food and drinks available for purchase that you can take back to your seat.
Observation cars: Some trains have these special cars for passengers to visit. (Amtrak calls them “sightseer lounges.”) Here, you often can sit in a lounge-style chair that looks out onto panoramic views, like Colorado’s Rocky Mountains and Washington’s Puget Sound estuary. These and the snack bars are also the train’s social hubs, making it easy to play a game of cards or sip coffee with a new friend.
Sleeper cars: If you’re traveling on an overnight route, consider booking a room so you can sleep in a bed rather than a seat. You can get a room with a full bathroom, including a small shower, or a roomette (you’ll need to use the restroom and shower facilities down the hall). You’ll also get the services of an attendant, who can assist with meals and help with luggage. Be aware: The beds are bunk-style, meaning if you’re traveling with a companion, one of you will need to climb into the upper berth. Accessible bedrooms located on the bottom of Amtrak’s two-level Superliner cars include space for a wheelchair. Keep in mind that in the sleeper car, you pay by room rather than by person, making it relatively expensive for a solo traveler.
WHAT TO PACK
Travelers generally can check up to four bags (two free and two at $20 each) and bring one personal and two carry-on items (size and weight limits apply, and oversize items may incur fees). Some stations offer Red Cap service to assist passengers with their bags.
WHAT TO BRING ON BOARD
Slippers Depending on the sleeping car you’ve booked, you might need to go down the hall to use the bathroom at night.
Chargers or batteries for electronic devices
A portable travel safe such as Pacsafe, Trova Go or Safego. Sleeping cars may lock only from the inside, so if you leave for a meal or go to the observation car, your door remains unlocked. Carry valuables with you when you leave your room or keep them in a locked safe.
A travel pillow, blanket and eye mask
Snacks and drinks You can bring your own food.
Headphones Toiletries for overnight journeys.
INSIDER TIP!
Tomiko Harvey, 54, of luxury lifestyle website PassportsandGrub.com
Get cozy. Bring along a large scarf that can double as a blanket. “I carry my Fendi wrap with me almost everywhere.”
Be prepared. Wi-Fi is often spotty, so Harvey recommends downloading everything you need before you board, or using a mobile hot spot.
Save on Train Travel
AARP members get deals on rail vacations from a variety of travel companies. Go to aarp.org/railbenefits for more info.
Reporting by Bobbi Dempsey, Bill Fink, Laura Kiniry, Stephanie Vermillion