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The Only Items Worth Buying Vintage

In fashion, everything old is ‘new’ (and even cooler) again

spinner image Woman browsing racks at vintage clothing store
Getty Images

As a fashion editor/stylist, I was a latecomer to the vintage/thrift idea. Then, in 2002 on a photo shoot in Los Angeles, I stumbled across Decades, a thrift shop filled with “pre-loved” designer clothing, and American Rag Cie, a store packed with vintage Levi’s. After scoring a ’90s-era Calvin Klein one-shoulder gown and perfectly aged 501s, I was hooked. “Vintage” is now considered anything 20 years old or older; pre-owned/thrift/consignment is less than 20 years, but sites often mix the terms. Whatever you call it, used clothing is hot as we become more eco-conscious. But not everything is worth it. Here’s what is … and what’s not:

(Note: Vintage can sell fast … some items pictured may be gone already!)

1. Status bags you’ve coveted forever

spinner image Clockwise from top left: Gucci GG Canvas Nailhead Jackie Bardot Bag ($445, therealreal.com); Vintage Chanel Double Flap 25 Quilted CC Logo Lambskin Chain Shoulder Bag ($1,120, eBay.com); Louis Vuitton Speedy Cloth Handbag ($559, vestiarecollective.com); Stella McCartney Falabella Shoulder Bag in Black vegetarian suede ($475, therealreal.com)
Clockwise from top left: Gucci GG Canvas Nailhead Jackie Bardot Bag ($445); Vintage Chanel Double Flap 25 Quilted CC Logo Lambskin Chain Shoulder Bag ($1,120); Louis Vuitton Speedy Cloth Handbag ($559); Stella McCartney Falabella Shoulder Bag ($475)
TheRealReal; eBay; vestiarecollective.com; TheRealReal

Expensive items such as a Chanel bag or a Louis Vuitton tote are on the bucket list of many fashionable 50-plus women. But why buy new when resale sites including The RealReal, ReBag, eBay and Vestiaire Collective offer discounted prices? Some styles are not produced anymore, so you may get a one-of-a-kind piece. I encourage clients to avoid splurging thousands on the most pristine, costly and “commercial” styles and search the good-to-very-good range. Sure, the Vintage Chanel Double Flap 25 Quilted CC Logo Lambskin Chain Shoulder Bag ($1,120, eBay.com) is alluring, but the Gucci GG Canvas Nailhead Jackie Bardot Bag ($445, therealreal.com), Louis Vuitton Speedy Cloth Handbag ($559, vestiarecollective.com) and the Stella McCartney Falabella Shoulder Bag in Black Vegetarian Suede ($475, therealreal.com) offer snob appeal for less. 

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2. Off-season name brand items

spinner image From left: 3.1 Phillip Lim Striped Maxi Wrap Skirt in Brown Multi from Pre-Owned Rent the Runway ($209, saksoff5th.com); Max Mara Wool Coat ($450, vestiairecollective.com); Diane Von Furstenberg Mid-Length Dress ($59, vestiairecollective.com) wrap style in violet; Banana Republic Factory Store Casual Dress ($17, thredup.com) boatneck Pucci like blue print; Kate Spade New York Disco Dots Cropped Jumpsuit- Rent The Runway/ Pre-Owned ($82, saksoff5th.com)
From left: 3.1 Phillip Lim Striped Maxi Wrap Skirt ($209); Max Mara Wool Coat ($450); Diane Von Furstenberg Mid-Length Dress ($59); Banana Republic Factory Store Casual Dress ($17); Kate Spade New York Disco Dots Cropped Jumpsuit ($82)
saksoff5th.com; vestiairecollective.com (2); thredup.com; saksoff5th.com

Daily wear clothing prices are rising, and “pre-owned” is not just about luxury. Sites such as ThredUp, eBay and Saks Off 5th offer a wide range of used clothes from popular contemporary designs by Zara, H&M, Theory, J.Crew and Diane von Furstenberg plus mass brands Ann Taylor and Banana Republic. One of the best strategies is to shop for opposite seasons instead of in-season. Summer is ideal for finding leather boots, tailored work clothes and sweaters; winter is the time to stock up on breezy dresses, jumpsuits, blouses and ¾-sleeve tops, mules and sandals. Glowing with the patina of a history (just like us!), they power up a basic wardrobe fast.

3. Gently worn leather jackets and jeans

spinner image From left: Vintage 1970s Black Leather Hippie Belted Trench Coat Jacket from Boutique 369 ($165, etsy.com); Zadig & Voltaire Leather Biker Jacket ($170, vestiairecollective.com); Levi’s Secondhand Vintage Orange Tab 517 Bootcut Jeans- Mixed Styles ($128, secondhand.levi.com); FrenchToastVintage Revival Black Leather Motocross Biker Jacket ($115, marketplace.asos.com) early 1990s
From left: 1970s Black Leather Hippie Belted Trench Coat Jacket ($165); Zadig & Voltaire Leather Biker Jacket ($170); Levi’s Secondhand Vintage Orange Tab 517 Bootcut Jeans($128); FrenchToastVintage Revival Black Leather Motocross Biker Jacket ($115)
etsy.com; vestiarecollective.com; secondhandlevi.com; marketplace.asos.com

Cool leather jackets and jeans always look better when “seasoned,” making them smart, affordable pre-owned-vintage purchases. Look for a real leather jacket in your favorite style or even a leather trench coat that’s already soft and broken in. Add a pair of weathered jeans in any style (yes, they’re even softer and more hip than new ones in a so-called vintage wash), and you have a brand-new look. Walmart and Levi’s Secondhand have excellent pre-owned denim stock, and thrift shops in funky urban neighborhoods and college towns are great brick-and-mortar sources.

4. Evening and event wear

spinner image From left: Vince Cameo Cocktail Dress ($43, thredup.com) ruched silver; Kate Spade New York heels ($86, thredup.com)  sparkly block heel; Uncle Ed Vintage 80s Metallic Blazer in Gold ($64, marketplace.asos.com) tailored blouson wrap DB; I Dream of Wires Dress Vintage 80s Bright Print Midi ($39, marketplace.asos.com) tailored splashy print red, purple
From left: Vince Cameo Cocktail Dress ($43); Kate Spade New York heels ($86) ; Uncle Ed Vintage 80s Metallic Blazer ($64); I Dream of Wires Dress Vintage 80s Bright Print Midi ($39)
thredup.com (2); marketplace.asos.com (2)

Some of the best pre-owned and vintage buys are items for special events, parties and work occasions. Reduced prices really do eliminate the guilt factor of buying seldom-worn clothes that may not be in heavy rotation. For drop-dead evening entrances, you can’t miss with shimmery metallic fabrics, sequins and sparkly shoes, but pay attention to day-to-night dresses in vivacious prints. They’re head-turners and very versatile with a spectacular pair of low or chunky heels. Think of this shopping venture as an opportunity to break out of a practical rut and steal the spotlight.

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5. Statement belts, bracelets and scarves

spinner image Clockwise from top left: Valentino by Mario Valentino 1.2’’ Leather Belt in Lipstick ($180, saksoff5th.com) standout buckle and red color; Hermes Navy & Multicolor “Les Tambours” Silk Scarf 90 ($390, whatgoesaroundnyc.com); Givenchy Crystal Modernist Earrings from Wisteria Antiques ($109, onekingslane.com; Kenneth Jay Lane Faux Coral Seed Bead Multistrand Necklace with Slide from Damsontreasures ($95, etsy.com)
Clockwise from top left: Valentino by Mario Valentino 1.2’’ Leather Belt ($180); Hermes Navy & Multicolor “Les Tambours” Silk Scarf ($390); Givenchy Crystal Modernist Earrings ($109); Kenneth Jay Lane Faux Coral Seed Bead Necklace ($95)
saksoff5th.com; whatgoesaroundnyc.com; onekingslane.com; etsy.com

Want high drama clip-on earrings that won’t drag down your lobes, a show-stopping bracelet to add to your stack or an elegant silk designer scarf? Finds like these, from low-cost to splurge-y, make shopping secondhand feel like a treasure hunt. Be sure to mix them with casual and trendy items for a modern look.

6. What not to buy?

Resist anything that you love at first sight but is a size too large or too small, too sheer, too short or difficult to wear. Skip clothes that need tailoring and hemming to work for you, anything that is stained or torn and items with an iffy zipper. Honestly, a little wear and tear is part of the charm of buying used clothing, but pass on sweaters that have stinky pits and shoes with odors. Not kidding. I’ve been lured by Prada pullovers and Golden Goose sneakers with smelly linings only to find the pew! factor does not go away with DIY vinegar rinses or pro cleaning. Don’t be intimidated by limited time settings for an item to be on hold. Sure, it may sell out, but I promise there will be a better buy tomorrow. 

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