Staying Fit
A journey along Georgia's eastern coast is equal parts history and nature. Several barrier islands have been saved from overdevelopment, rewarding visitors with rugged landscapes dotted by centuries-old landmarks.
This itinerary takes you to seven of the prettiest islands as well as waterfront cities you shouldn't miss: Savannah, of course, and smaller towns such as Darien and St. Marys. While a few of the isles are accessible by car, more remote shores require a boat ride — always worth the extra effort for what waits on the other side.
Savannah’s downtown riverfront
Rose-Marie Murray / Alamy Stock Photo
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Day 1: Tybee Island to Savannah (20 miles)
Begin your adventure on Tybee Island, one of Georgia's northernmost barrier islands. Its 18th-century lighthouse is the state's oldest and tallest, an ideal first stop to get the lay of the land from 145 feet up. Your ticket includes admission to the Tybee Museum, housed in a former military battery and covering about four centuries of the isle's history, from early Native Americans to 1920s tourism. Next, mosey over to North Beach for a swim. When you're hungry, North Bar and Grill satisfies with Caribbean fusion food and music on its shady deck.
From Tybee, cross the bridge north to Cockspur Island, home of Fort Pulaski, once a stop on the Underground Railroad. Besides the fort, with its moat and 2-acre parade grounds, the national monument features trails to view wildlife, an abandoned lighthouse and ruins of its North Pier.
Then hop on U.S. Highway 80 and head 25 minutes west, straight into the heart of Savannah and spend the rest of your afternoon in the city's tree-lined Historic District. A must-see: Forsyth Park, with its oft-photographed fountain. If it's the weekend, indulge in the ritual of afternoon tea at the Mansion on Forsyth Park. Otherwise, see the sights nearby. The Mercer Williams House Museum, infamous as the scene of the murder detailed in the best-selling nonfiction novel (and later movie) Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil; Monterey Square (just one of the city's 22 scenic squares); and Congregation Mickve Israel, the country's only Gothic-style synagogue, are all within walking distance. Wind down the evening on Savannah's famous River Street, where you can take a riverboat cruise for dinner and dancing.
Where to stay: East Bay Inn in the Historic District dates to the 1850s, but the hotel has all the modern luxuries, such as a concierge and nightly glass of wine or beer. The rumor it may be haunted just adds more charm.
The Wormsloe State Historic Site in Savannah
Jon Arnold Images Ltd / Alamy Stock Photo
Day 2: Savannah to Darien (63 miles)
From the inn, walk over to Goose Feathers Café to brunch on grits, waffles and croissants stuffed with raspberry cream. Take Congress Street on the way back to walk through three more attractive city squares: Reynolds, Johnson and Ellis.
Now, bid farewell to the Historic District and drive 4 miles southeast to Bonaventure Cemetery, dating to 1846 and bordering Wilmington River (not the same river as on River Street — that's the Savannah River). The cemetery statue made famous on the cover of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil is no longer there, but Bonaventure's many other lavish sculptures and headstones dazzle across more than 100 acres.
A mile down the river, fill up on fried oysters and butterfly shrimp on the waterfront patio of the seafood-happy Tubby's Tank House. Continue your leisurely drive south just 5 more miles to Wormsloe State Historic Site, a former colonial estate. The park features tabby ruins, occasional demonstrators in period garb and a long avenue of live oaks draped in Spanish moss, the perfect Instagram shot. For more scenery, drive southeast 7 miles to Skidaway Island to hike the trails, keeping an eye out for egrets, herons and more, especially from the boardwalk.
You can easily make Darien by dinnertime, just over an hour south off Interstate 95. Like many coastal communities, this small city knows how to do seafood right, so dine at Skipper's Fish Camp and order the fried Georgia shrimp. You won't be disappointed.
