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Yellowstone National Park

 

We weren’t sure what to expect when we arrived at Yellowstone National Park on June 28th. We heard prior visitors say that we will love it and others say that they were really disappointed because the fire of 1988 really destroyed and detracted from the national’s first national park, established in 1872.

 

We just finished traveling 100 miles from Idaho Falls, Idaho to West Yellowstone KOA RV Park, located in Montana, but it was only lunchtime and we were anxious to see at least some of Yellowstone’s more than 2.2 million acres. We stopped at the Information Center in town and Jim asked a forest ranger where we might see wildlife, because his hobby was photography. The ranger directed us to a road in the northern portion of the park and explained that the northeast gate was closed due to an avalanche. That route was less traveled and had many more animals.

 

We entered the west entrance using our Golden Eagle Passport (for a fee of $65 annually we get unlimited access to all national parks) and received a map and the appropriate warnings. In April when Jim turns 62 years old, we will be eligible to purchase a Golden Age Pass (one time only fee of $10 for lifetime unlimited access to all national parks).   After only a few miles, we crossed the state line from Montana into Wyoming. Yes, Yellowstone is so-o-o huge that it covers part of three states . . . the third being Idaho in the southern portion of the park. Immediately we saw the remains of the 1988 fire that covered acres and acres of ground with towering burnt tree stumps. Then we were delightfully surprised how the fire caused the pine trees to reseed themselves and life had returned abundantly with lush new growth of pine trees about seven to ten feet high and so dense that you couldn’t see through the woods. Mother Nature fixes itself . . . if we humans don’t mess with it.

 

As we drove deeper into the park we noticed about a dozen vehicles parked along both sides of the road and people with cameras and binoculars everywhere. We pulled over too and saw a heard of female elks grazing on the side of the road. It was a beautiful sunny day, with gentle winds that blew the grasses gently as these large brown females ate without being bothered by any of us.

 

When Jim and I worked at Bryce Canyon National Park last summer, at dusk the deer would come out to feed at the same locations in the park. Every night this would cause what the rangers affectionately referred to as a “deer jam.” From that point on we called the appearance of cars and trucks pulled over for sightings as “elk jam” or whatever the animal that was sighted “jam.”

 

Next we came across another “jam.” When we looked up the side of the hill we spotted a large bull elk with an amazingly large rack. He was just lying down under a large Ponderosa pine and chewing his cud. Jim walked back with his 35mm camera with lenses to get a better shot. The park rules require visitors to stay 100 feet from all animals and not to disturb them. Jim stayed back at least twice that distance knowing if he were in a race to get back to the car . . . Jim would lose.

 

Not far from that spot, the road had orange cones and warning signs not to stop, park, walk or stand for the next ¼ of a mile. When I looked up, I could see the reason for the warnings . . . it was an American Bald Eagle nest and with mother and two babies. We parked ½ mile away and watched for a while, but we needed our binoculars to actually get a decent look at them. Because the emblem of our country has been on the endangered species list, I understood the need to not interfere with their daily routine.

 

Back in the car, we started seeing smoke coming from the ground in many locations. These were little geysers, and some that were so small that they weren’t even noted on the park map. But there were warnings throughout the park not to go near these thermal areas that released noxious fumes. Checking our map, I noticed we now crossed the caldera boundary . . . in other words . . . we were traveling on top of a large super volcano that was predicted to erupt, but the volcanologists and geologists couldn’t predict when. We just prayed that it wouldn’t be today.

 

We drove along the Madison and Gibbon Rivers and stopped at overlooks that allowed us to enjoy the beauty of the sparkling waterfalls and colorful valleys. At this point, Jim and I agreed that we were very thankful to President Teddy Roosevelt, who had enough forethought to preserve this wilderness for future generations to enjoy. We had no doubt without his intercession; these mountains would be stripped clean for minerals, energy, and development and would decimate this entire area. 

 

We continued to keep our eyes peeled for wildlife as we drove by numerous fields, lakes, rivers, marshes and creeks. Next we spotted more than a dozen, enormous buffalo grazing, causing a “buffalo jam.” Buffalo can weigh 2000 pounds and can sprint at 30 mph. We added to the jam to get some pictures too. 

 

The next “jam” really surprised us. It was a black bear walking into the woods. We looked at each other and shook our heads in wonderment. We had been in the park for less than half an hour and we saw wildlife galore, in their natural environment and we were speechless.

 

We went through the Mammoth Hot Springs area, but we only made a pit stop, because we were searching for wildlife instead of taking in all the park’s attractions on this first day. Our timing was perfect. As we drove down the most northern route of the park, dozens of vehicles were parked and the park ranger was directing people and traffic.   Then we saw why all the commotion . . . a coyote was crossing the road followed by a pronghorn antelope. It appeared to be a female pronghorn and I can only guess that the coyote got too near one of her calves and she was running with the coyote. I couldn’t believe my luck . . . they were both running toward our car. I got my camera out and actually got a picture of the two of them in the same frame. They ran right next to our car. I have titled this picture “the odd couple.”

 

We were part of numerous “buffalo and elk jams,” as we drove passed the Tower-Roosevelt area. As we scanned the fields of wild flowers of every color, Jim noticed two leaping figures in the tall grasses. It turned out to be two gray wolves, hunting and eating their kill. Wolves were reintroduced to the park in 1995 and we felt extremely fortunate to be one of the lucky visitors to actually see them for more than 10 minutes, hunting, feeding, running, and playing.

 

When we turned around, we talked about the amazing adventures of the day. The only regret was that we weren’t closer to some of the animals to be able to get better pictures. No sooner had we discussed this when a buffalo moseyed across the road right in front of our car. The back of the buffalo was taller than the top of our car.   We still stopped and got some close-up pictures.

 

When we got back to the area where we spotted the black bear, there was another “bear jam.” We jumped out of the car. Yes, the bear was crossing the road and it came within 15 feet of Jim and me. Jim got some pictures, but I took so many pictures with my digital camera, my memory card had no pictures remaining. I was so excited that I forgot I had a backup memory card to take more pictures in the car. The ranger did an excellent job of clearing a path for the black bear to cross the road, but still allowed the park visitors the opportunity to see this magnificent animal “up close and personal,” as safely as possible.

 

To the right of our car we saw two small creatures standing on their hind legs and then hiding in their holes. They turned out to be yellow-bellied marmots. We couldn’t believe our good luck as we sighted what caused the marmot alert . . . another coyote. That was nothing compared to what happened next. Three tremendous buffaloes walked on to the road only two cars in front of us. Instead of crossing the road, they started walking down the road. These thousand-pound, plus creatures, just meandered down the road as the vehicles began to pile up behind us. Cars, trucks, and RV’s weaved back and forth on the two-lane highway to see why we were only driving 5 to 10 mph. The front car was afraid to do anything that would startle or get the buffalo with horns angry. The “Buffalo Parade” got longer and longer. For more than twenty minutes we drove in the parade led by these prehistoric looking creatures. Every time it looked like the front car could drive around them, the lead buffalo would cross into the on-coming lane and stopped traffic in both directions. Our only concern was if we had enough gas to last out the parade and return trip.

 

Finally a small white car raced up the wrong side of the road, honking the horn. The name Xantera was on the side of the car. That was the concessionaire in the park and the employee was probably tired of waiting and knew enough to know that honking the horn would only move the buffaloes on and not cause them to attack. 

 

We made it back to town with two gallons of gas to spare. We filled-up again to get an early start in the morning. 

 

The next day we decided to visit the southern portion of the park that included the most famous of approximately 10,000 thermal features in the park, “Old Faithful,” a geyser that typically went off on an average of every 94 minutes. Our timing was perfect because we showed up 10 minutes before the next eruption of thousands of gallons of water that shot about 100’ in the air. Although Old Faithful Geyser was fascinating, my favorite geyser was Steamboat Geyser. It has the world’s record for the highest eruptions shooting from 300’ to 400’ in the air, but they are now unpredictable. The last major eruption was May 23, 2005. As we stood and watched Steamboat, it erupted every few minutes at different heights and different directions. Another enjoyable thermal feature was Fountain Paint Pot. It was mesmerizing with various size and colored thermal pools and springs.

 

We traveled on to West Thumb, Grant Village, Bay Bridge, Lake Village and Fishing Bridge on Yellowstone Lake. Yellowstone Lake was so incredibly large that it creates its own weather. The shoreline is 141 miles long. When we first saw the lake, it had white caps and waves on the beach . . . yes waves on a lake. About 30 miles down the shore, fishermen were fly fishing because it was completely calm . . . no waves and the lake was as smooth as glass. We stopped to take pictures of American white pelicans, Trumpeter swans, and seagulls, but the iridescent blue, mountain blue birds, eagles, ravens, magpies, and hawks were illusive or should I say too quick for us to photograph.

 

The next day we decided to investigate some of Montana’s national forests. Montana is truly “Big Sky Country,” a naturalist’s wonderland. As we drove by Earthquake Lake in Gallatin National Forest, I spotted a large bird with a white tail in flight. I shouted at Jim, “It’s an American Bald Eagle!” Jim turned the car around. He pulled over and I jumped out with my camera. The eagle had soared below the road level and captured a prey. He flew to the top of one of the dead tree stumps that was just above the road level and stopped to eat. I showed Jim where the eagle now stood and he took pictures from only 75’ away. Unlike the nest in Yellowstone, we got to see his exquisite white head and tail, and rich, dark brown body and majestic wing-span without binoculars. Earthquake Lake was created on August 17, 1959, when a 7.5 earthquake hit this area and started massive landslides that blocked the Madison River, creating this refuge for this regal bird. Unfortunately 28 people lost their lives that night as a testament to this ever-changing planet Earth.

 

Then we traveled a narrow dirt road route along the West Fork of the Madison River and to our surprise Jim spotted a grizzly bear not 30’ from our car. Thankfully if took off running away up the hill, quicker than we could get our cameras ready . . . but we saw it! We returned to our motorhome that night feeling extremely fortunate to have seen these animals, not in a zoo, but in their natural habitats.

 

The next day we returned to Yellowstone N.P. and once again not far from Elk Creek we saw a black bear and a cinnamon-colored black bear. The ranger that was directing traffic explained that black bears come in all colors and we were looking at a full grown male black bear. Because the winters are so long and hard the black bears in Yellowstone don’t grow as big as the bears in Pennsylvania. He said that the record black bear in Yellowstone was 315 pounds. He showed us that the bear was looking to eat a plant called “goats beard,” and showed us a sample of the plant.

 

Later that day, as we turned on to a road to see the “Petrified Tree,” we saw a bull moose running across the road. Then we saw why he was running . . . another black bear. 

 

Our remaining time at Yellowstone was filled with many wild animal encounters, including a “bull elk jam,” that we caused, after I spotted him grazing below the rim of the road. We pulled over and found a trail down to the grassland where the bull elk was grazing. Jim got some wonderful shots and truly felt like a wildlife photographer.

 

Today is Independence Day and Jim and I are truly thankful to live in a country that allows us to travel it freely and see God’s many gifts. We are looking forward to our new adventures ahead. We hope you enjoy the gift of each new day and the independence we have to choose new paths. 

 

 

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